🔧 Journey - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal grinding that can damage the rear rotors. On your Journey, the rear caliper piston typically must be turned while pushing in to make room for the new, thicker pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• 🔥 Brakes get very hot; let everything cool before touching parts.
• 🧪 Don’t breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner—don’t blow with compressed air.
• 🧴 Brake fluid can overflow when compressing pistons; keep rags handy and don’t spill on paint.
• 🧷 If your Journey has a screw-in rear piston, you must use a wind-back tool; forcing it straight in can damage the caliper.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm open-end wrench
• 18mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper piston wind-back tool kit (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic) - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 (if worn/grooved)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and release the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; don’t remove the cap yet, just know where it is in case the level rises.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Lift the rear at a proper rear jacking point using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at solid support points.
• Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 3: Inspect the caliper and rotor

• Look at the rotor face for heavy grooves, cracks, or a large outer lip. If it’s badly worn, plan on replacing rotors in pairs.
• Check for wetness around the caliper (brake fluid leak). If leaking, stop and repair the leak before continuing.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (leave the bracket on for pad-only)

• Turn the steering knuckle is not applicable at the rear; just position yourself for access.
• Hold the caliper slide pin with a 15mm open-end wrench (this prevents it from spinning).
• Remove the caliper guide/slide bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the pad “landing” areas on the bracket with a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner.
• Clean metal lets pads slide freely.

Step 6: Compress (wind back) the rear caliper piston

• Check the brake fluid reservoir level; if it’s near MAX, be ready with shop rags in case it rises.
• Install the correct adapter from the brake caliper piston wind-back tool kit (specialty) onto the piston face.
• Turn the tool to rotate the piston while applying pressure to push it in until it is fully seated.
• A “wind-back tool” is a tool that turns and pushes the piston in at the same time so you don’t damage the caliper.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket by hand (they should snap in firmly).
• Apply a thin film of brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic) to pad ears where they touch the clips.
• Slide the new pads into the bracket. They should move smoothly with light hand force.
• Do not grease the pad friction surface.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• If it won’t fit, the piston isn’t fully retracted—use the wind-back tool kit (specialty) again.
• Install the caliper guide/slide bolts using a 13mm socket while holding the slide pin with a 15mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 9: If you removed the caliper bracket (only if doing rotors too)

• Remove/install bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Torque to 129 Nm (95 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Seat the pads and verify pedal feel

• Before starting the engine, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back out to the new pads.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine running, confirm the brake pedal stays firm and does not sink.
• Test at low speed first (5–10 mph) and confirm no pulling, grinding, or clunking.
• Perform a gentle bed-in: 6–10 moderate stops from 30 mph down to 5 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $200-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Assumption: Rear calipers on your Journey use a screw-in (wind-back) piston design; if your piston presses straight in, stop and use a standard compression method instead.