🔧 Tundra - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal grinding that can ruin the rear rotors. On your Tundra, the parking brake is a small drum brake inside the rear rotor “hat,” so this job focuses on the rear disc pads and caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• 🛑 Do not breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Never support the truck with only a jack—use jack stands.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• 🛑 Brake parts can be hot; let them cool before touching.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Catch pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake hardware kit (rear pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and release the parking brake (important on rear brake work).
• Place wheel chocks at the front tires.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose about 1/4 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Keep the cap sitting loosely on top (do not seal it tight) so fluid can rise when you compress the pistons.
• Tip: If fluid is near MAX, remove a little. Use a catch pan to avoid spills.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear differential housing.
• Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) (one per side), then lower the jack slightly so the truck rests securely on the stands.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (do not let it hang)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear, but position yourself for access.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Hang it from the suspension with a bungee cord so the brake hose is not stretched.
• Tip: Hanging prevents hose damage.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the caliper bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Remove the pad clips/shims from the bracket (if included in your kit).
• Clean the bracket “pad seats” (where the clips sit) using brake parts cleaner and a wire brush.

Step 4: Service the slide pins

• Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe them clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone-based).
• Reinstall the pins and confirm they slide smoothly. (Slide pins are the small shafts that let the caliper move evenly.)

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir so it does not overflow.

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips/shims into the bracket.
• Apply a very thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) on the pad ears where they contact the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket in the same orientation as the originals.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners

• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten using a 14mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper slide pin bolts.
• If you removed the caliper bracket (not always required for pads only), tighten the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 104 Nm (77 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 131 Nm (97 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Restore pedal feel

• With the truck on the ground, pump the brake pedal slowly 8–12 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off if needed.
• Clean any spilled fluid using brake parts cleaner and a rag (catch in a catch pan).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine running, press the brake pedal and confirm it stays firm (no sinking).
• Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
• Re-check brake fluid level after your test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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