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2011 Honda Accord
2011 Honda Accord
SE - Inline 4 2.4L
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2011 honda accord rear brake pads replacement

2011 honda accord rear brake pads replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2011 Honda Accord (Rear Caliper Wind-Back Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, caliper piston rotate-and-push tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2011 Honda Accord (Rear Caliper Wind-Back Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, caliper piston rotate-and-push tips, and torque specs

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đź”§ Accord - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers up, swap the pads (and hardware clips), then retract the caliper piston so everything fits back together. On your Accord, the rear caliper piston typically must be rotated while being pushed in because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers won’t retract correctly if it’s on).
  • ⚠️ Brake dust and cleaner are harsh—wear gloves and safety glasses.
  • ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hanger.
  • ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid level while retracting pistons; fluid can overflow the reservoir.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
  • 12mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Rear disc brake caliper wind-back tool set (specialty)
  • Bungee cord or mechanics wire
  • Wire brush
  • Brake parts cleaner spray
  • Shop rags
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
  • High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 (small bottle, for top-off if needed)

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park your Accord on level ground, shift to P, and place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels.
  • Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
  • Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pop the brake fluid reservoir cap loose (don’t remove fluid yet). This helps pressure release when you retract pistons.
  • Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts slightly while the car is on the ground using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

  • Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear jacking point.
  • Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) placed at solid support points.
  • Give the car a gentle push to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

  • Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Locate the caliper and remove the lower slide-pin bolt

  • On the rear brake, find the caliper (the “clamp” over the rotor) and the two slide-pin bolts on the back.
  • Remove the lower slide-pin bolt using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Tip: Turn steering wheel doesn’t help rear; use good lighting.

Step 4: Swing the caliper up and support it

  • Pivot the caliper upward like a hinge (it will swing around the upper slide pin).
  • Support the caliper using a bungee cord or mechanics wire so there’s no strain on the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware clips

  • Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Remove the stainless pad hardware/abutment clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers.
  • Clean the bracket “lands” (where clips sit) with brake parts cleaner spray and a wire brush, then wipe with shop rags.

Step 6: Check slide pins (important for even braking)

  • Carefully slide the lower pin in/out by hand.
  • If it’s dry or sticky, wipe it clean with shop rags, then apply a thin coat of high-temp silicone brake grease.
  • Tip: Don’t get grease on pad friction material.

Step 7: Retract the rear caliper piston (rotate + push)

  • Look at the piston face; you’ll usually see notches—this style retracts by turning while pressing.
  • Use a rear disc brake caliper wind-back tool set (specialty) to rotate the piston clockwise while pushing it inward until it bottoms out smoothly.
  • Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir. If it gets too full, soak up a little with a rag (don’t spill on paint).
  • Tip: Slow, steady pressure prevents seal damage.

Step 8: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

  • Snap the new abutment clips from the hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
  • Apply a very thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where pads slide on the clips (metal-to-metal only).

Step 9: Install the new pads

  • Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
  • If your pads include a wear indicator/squealer, match the orientation from the original setup.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper and torque the slide-pin bolt

  • Swing the caliper back down over the new pads.
  • Install the lower slide-pin bolt using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Final tighten with a torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear side

  • Repeat Steps 3–10 for the other rear wheel.
  • Do one side at a time to use the other side as a reference.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

âś… After Repair

  • With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • Do a cautious test drive. Start with gentle stops, then gradually increase braking.
  • Tip: Avoid hard stops for ~200 miles.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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