🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear calipers out of the way, swap the old pads for new ones, then compress the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. This restores braking performance and prevents metal-to-metal damage to the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it with air; use brake cleaner.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake fully released during this job.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire hook or bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart (as needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and fully release the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• 🧴 Open the hood and remove the brake master cylinder cap (leave it resting on top). This helps the caliper piston compress more easily—watch for overflow.
• 🧼 Spray brake cleaner on the caliper/pad area to reduce dust before you start.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Break the rear lug nuts loose

• Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under a solid rear jacking point.
• Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently lower the truck onto them.
• Give the truck a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet (or breaker bar).
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (slide pin bolts)

• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back side of the caliper.
• Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a wire hook or bungee cord so it’s not hanging by the brake hose.
• Don’t twist or stretch the brake hose.
• Reinstall spec later: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• If the stainless pad clips are being replaced, use a flathead screwdriver to pop the old clips out of the bracket.
• Spray the bracket pad-contact areas with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face (optional but helps spread force).
• Use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid level while compressing—remove excess if it gets too high.
• Slow pressure prevents seal damage.

Step 7: Install new pad hardware and grease contact points

• Install the new stainless clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit into the bracket by hand until fully seated.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad “ears” slide on the clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor.

Step 8: Install the new rear pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Make sure the pads slide freely in the clips (they should move with firm finger pressure).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Position the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 13mm socket to snug them.
• Final tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a 1/2" drive torque wrench with a 21mm socket to torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear side

• Perform the same pad replacement steps on the opposite rear wheel.

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 Before starting the truck, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• 🧴 Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• 🔍 Inspect both rear calipers for leaks and confirm the brake hoses are not twisted.
• 🛣️ Test drive at low speed first. Confirm normal braking and no pulling or grinding.
• 🔥 Pad bed-in (recommended): make 6-10 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, allowing brief cool-down between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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