🔧 Rear Brake Pads - Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your F-350 means removing the rear wheels, swinging the rear calipers out of the way, swapping the pads and hardware, then reassembling everything with the correct torque. Worn pads reduce stopping power and can damage the rotors if ignored.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–3 hours

Assumption: Rear disc brakes with drum-in-hat parking brake (no electronic parking brake).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the axle with jack stands before removing wheels.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks so the truck cannot roll.
• ⚠️ Do not breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a dust mask.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Keep grease off pad friction material and rotor surfaces.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
• Wheel chocks (pair)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2", 50–250 ft-lbs range)
• 21mm socket (lug nuts)
• 13mm socket (caliper slide bolts)
• 18mm socket (caliper bracket bolts)
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Small drip pan

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 (optional if worn)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Lift the rear axle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands under the axle tubes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and inspect parts

• Look at the rear caliper, pads, and rotor.
• If the rotor has deep grooves, heavy rust ridges, or cracks, plan to replace rotors (in pairs).

Step 3: Remove the caliper slide bolts

• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Carefully wiggle the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord or mechanics wire (this prevents hose damage).
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware clips

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the pad hardware/abutment clips using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Clean the pad “lands” (the metal ledges the clips sit on) with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (set it loosely on top).
• Place an old pad against the piston face, then compress the piston using a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty).
• Compress slowly and stop if you feel abnormal binding.
• Check the reservoir level so it does not overflow (use a small drip pan and wipe any spills immediately).

Step 6: Service the slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe them clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease.
• Reinsert pins and confirm they move smoothly (they should glide, not stick).

Step 7: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install new abutment clips onto the bracket by hand (they should snap into place).
• Apply a very thin film of brake caliper slide pin grease where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Grease only metal-to-metal contact points.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 2–8 on the other rear wheel.
• Work one side at a time so you can compare if needed.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet in a star pattern.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using a floor jack.
• Final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 224 Nm (165 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap.
• Do a slow test in a safe area: verify normal braking, no pulling, and no grinding noises.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, letting brakes cool 30–60 seconds between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50–100 miles using a torque wrench: 224 Nm (165 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350–$700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80–$250 (parts only)

You Save: $270–$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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