🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, unbolting the rear brake calipers, swapping the pads, and reassembling everything with proper lubrication and torque. This restores braking performance and prevents rotor damage and noise.

Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands—never work under a car supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool brake system. Hot brakes and rotors can cause serious burns.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves. Brake dust and tools can injure eyes and hands.
• ⚠️ Do one side at a time so you can look at the other side as a reference if needed.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed; you could pop out the piston.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint. It can damage painted surfaces quickly.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels so the Grand Cherokee cannot roll while the rear is lifted.
• ⚠️ Battery does not need to be disconnected for this job, but keep ignition OFF during work.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Lug wrench (21mm) or 21mm socket
• 🛠️ Socket wrench (3/8" or 1/2" drive)
• 🛠️ 13mm socket
• 🛠️ 18mm socket
• 🛠️ Torque wrench (0–150 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Flat-head screwdriver (medium size)
• 🛠️ C-clamp (6" or larger) or disc brake piston tool
• 🛠️ Wire brush (small)
• 🛠️ Bungee cord or wire hanger
• 🛠️ Brake cleaner spray
• 🛠️ Shop rags
• 🛠️ Mechanic gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Small pick tool or awl

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 (serves both rear wheels, replace in pairs)
• 🔩 Rear brake pad hardware kit (shims/clips) - Qty: 1 (recommended)
• 🔩 High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Brake cleaner - Qty: 1–2 cans
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 (optional for wheel hub faces)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Grand Cherokee on a flat, solid surface with plenty of room.
• Shift to PARK and set the parking brake firmly. You’ll release it only after the rear is lifted and chocked, if needed.
• Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly (about 1/2 turn) with the 21mm socket while the vehicle is still on the ground.
• Place wheel chocks in front of and behind at least one front wheel.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to stop mid-job.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear of the vehicle

• Use the floor jack under the rear jacking point or the rear axle area recommended in your owner’s manual.
• Raise the rear until both rear wheels are off the ground.
• Place jack stands under solid frame or factory jack points on both sides.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands and make sure it’s stable.
• Try to rock the vehicle gently to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and socket wrench or lug wrench to remove the loosened lug nuts from one rear wheel.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.
• Repeat for the other rear wheel.

Step 3: Inspect the brake assembly

• Look at the caliper (the part that squeezes the pads), the rotor (the big metal disc), and the pads sitting on each side of the rotor.
• Take a quick picture with your phone for reference before disassembly.

Step 4: Remove the lower caliper guide pin bolt

• On the rear side of the caliper, locate the two slide pin bolts (top and bottom).
• Use the 13mm socket and socket wrench to remove the lower slide pin bolt.
• Leave the upper slide pin bolt in place for now.
• If the bolt is tight, use steady pressure, not jerking.

Step 5: Swing the caliper up and support it

• Rotate the caliper upward on the remaining top slide pin like a hinge.
• Use a bungee cord or wire hanger to hang the caliper from the suspension spring or another solid point.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use a flat-head screwdriver if needed to gently pry them out.
• Look for metal clips (pad hardware) where the pads were sitting in the bracket.
• Use the flat-head screwdriver or small pick tool to pop out the old clips.

Step 7: Clean the caliper bracket and rotor area

• Use the wire brush to clean rust and debris where the pad clips sit on the caliper bracket.
• Spray brake cleaner on the bracket and rotor surface to remove dust. Wipe with shop rags.
• A clean bracket helps pads move freely and quietly.

Step 8: Install new hardware (clips)

• Position the new clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit into the caliper bracket where the old ones were.
• Press them in by hand until they click or sit firmly in place.
• Make sure they are fully seated and not bent.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use the C-clamp (or brake piston tool) over the back of the caliper and the old pad.
• Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston is fully pushed back into the caliper housing.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood to be sure it does not overflow. If fluid rises close to the top, blot some out with a shop rag.
• Go slowly to avoid damaging the piston seal.

Step 10: Apply brake grease to contact points

• Put a thin layer of high-temperature silicone brake grease on the metal surfaces of the new clips where the pads will slide.
• Apply a small amount on the pad “ears” (the small tabs where they contact the clips).
• Do not get grease on the pad friction surface or rotor.

Step 11: Install the new brake pads

• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket, making sure the friction surfaces face the rotor.
• On many pads, the one with a wear indicator tab (small metal finger) usually goes on the inside; match how the originals were installed.
• Make sure the pads move smoothly in the clips.

Step 12: Reposition and bolt the caliper

• Rotate the caliper back down over the new pads.
• Align the lower slide pin bolt hole.
• Install the lower slide pin bolt by hand, then tighten it with the 13mm socket and socket wrench.
• Tighten both slide pin bolts (top and bottom) to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) using the torque wrench and 13mm socket.

Step 13: Repeat for the other side

• Repeat Steps 4–12 on the opposite rear brake.
• Do not mix up used and new pads between sides.

Step 14: Final check and reinstall wheels

• Inspect both sides: pads seated correctly, bolts tightened, no tools left in the area.
• Place the wheel back onto the hub.
• Install lug nuts by hand, snug them in a star pattern using the 21mm socket.

Step 15: Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands, remove the stands, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
• With the Grand Cherokee on the ground, use the torque wrench and 21mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, sit in the driver’s seat and slowly press the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and adjust if necessary (do not overfill).
• Inspect around both rear calipers and hoses for any leaks or loose parts.
• On your first drive, test brakes at low speed in a safe area. Listen for grinding or unusual noises.
• For the first 300–500 km, avoid hard braking if possible. This helps “bed in” the pads and rotors for best life and performance.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80–$180 (parts only)

You Save: $170–$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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