🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers up, swap the old pads for new ones, and compress the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. This restores safe braking and prevents metal-to-metal damage to the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and support your Explorer with jack stands before going under or removing wheels.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels; keep the transmission in Park.
• 🔥 Brakes get very hot; let the rear brakes cool before touching parts.
• 🧪 Brake fluid damages paint; wipe spills immediately and don’t overfill the reservoir.
• 🪝 Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
• 🚫 Keep the parking brake released during the job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2")
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Short extension (3/8")
• Open-end wrench set (15mm)
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Bungee cord or caliper hook
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a flat surface, turn the engine off, and set the steering wheel straight.
• Release the parking brake fully.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap sitting loosely on top. Helps vent while compressing pistons.
• If the reservoir is near “MAX,” use a clean towel to catch any overflow when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen rear lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar (1/2") to crack the rear lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn while the tires are still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the rear

• Place wheel chocks at the front tires.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at a safe jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the rear wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Locate the rear caliper and inspect

• Turn one rear wheel hub by hand and look at the rotor and caliper.
• Check the brake hose for cracks or leaks; wipe dust using shop towels.

Step 4: Remove the caliper slide bolts

• On the back of the caliper, remove the two slide/guide bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
• If the slide pin spins, hold it with an open-end wrench (15mm) while loosening the bolt.

Step 5: Lift and support the caliper

• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward if it’s tight.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it securely using a bungee cord or caliper hook.
• Do not stretch or twist the brake hose.

Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips/hardware using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner spray.

Step 7: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6") (or brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)) to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir; stop if it’s about to overflow and absorb fluid with shop towels.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 8: Lubricate and install new hardware

• Install the new pad clips into the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pads contact the clips and at pad ears (metal-to-metal contact points only).
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor face; use brake parts cleaner spray if you do.

Step 9: Install new rear pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads slide freely in the clips; if they bind, re-clean with a wire brush.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Reinstall the caliper slide bolts using the 13mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2") (use an adapter/drive reducer if needed).

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 3–10 for the other rear side.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle to the ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal feel is normal (it may drop slightly with power assist).
• Do a slow test drive and confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• Pad break-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$490 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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