🔧 Forester - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear calipers out of the way, and install new pads (and hardware if included). Rear pads wear down over time, and replacing them restores safe stopping and prevents rotor damage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Support your Forester on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released while working on the rear brakes.
• ⚠️ Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner (spray) instead of compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; keep rags handy and wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a level surface, shift to P, and make sure the parking brake is OFF.
• Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Pop the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap loosely by hand (this helps the pistons compress easier).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear pinch welds/subframe points.
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Remove the wheels and set them under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 3: Locate the rear caliper and loosen the lower slide bolt

• On one side, find the brake caliper (the clamp that squeezes the rotor) and the caliper slide bolts (the bolts that let it move in/out).
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide bolt.

Step 4: Swing the caliper up and support it

• Pivot the caliper upward (it swings on the upper slide bolt).
• Hang the caliper with a bungee cord so there’s no strain on the brake hose.
• Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads straight out by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Spray the bracket area with brake parts cleaner spray and scrub rust with a wire brush.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Position one of the old pads against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid level as you compress; don’t let it overflow.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 7: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new stainless clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit onto the bracket by hand (they snap in).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” contact the clips (metal-on-metal sliding points).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and tighten the slide bolt

• Pivot the caliper back down over the new pads.
• Reinstall the lower slide bolt using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–8 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Use the same 14mm socket, C-clamp, and torque wrench process.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap by hand.
• Do a slow test drive and confirm normal braking with no pulling or grinding.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6–8 medium stops from ~35 mph to 5 mph, with 30–60 seconds between stops.
• Recheck for any brake fluid seepage and listen for abnormal noises after the drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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