🔧 Forester - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Forester involves removing the rear caliper (the clamp that squeezes the rotor), swapping the pads and hardware, and compressing the caliper piston so the new thicker pads fit. This is important for safe stopping and to prevent rotor damage when pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear brakes can drag if it’s set).
• ⚠️ Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Watch brake fluid level while pushing pistons in; it can overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Torque wrench (1/2-inch drive, 20–150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8-inch drive)
• Torque wrench (3/8-inch drive, 10–60 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6-inch)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Bungee cord
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level so you can watch for overflow during piston compression.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear of the vehicle

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give it a gentle shake to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Locate the rear caliper and bolts

• Identify the caliper (the clamp over the rotor) and the caliper bracket (the fixed mount the caliper slides on).
• Find the two smaller caliper slide-pin bolts (typically 14mm) and the two larger bracket bolts (typically 17mm).

Step 4: Remove the caliper from the bracket

• Remove the lower slide-pin bolt using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove the upper slide-pin bolt using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.
• Don’t twist or stretch the hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old inner and outer pads out by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Remove the pad hardware/clips from the bracket using a flat-blade screwdriver or needle-nose pliers.

Step 6: Clean and prep the bracket

• Spray the bracket and pad areas with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.
• Lightly clean the bracket “pad shelves” where the clips sit using a wire brush.
• Install the new hardware/clips by hand.

Step 7: Check and service the slide pins

• Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand (one at a time).
• Wipe clean with shop towels, then apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease.
• Reinstall slide pins and confirm they move smoothly by hand.

Step 8: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face (to spread the force evenly).
• Slowly compress the piston using a C-clamp (6-inch) until it bottoms out.
• Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove a little fluid if it looks like it will overflow.

Step 9: Install the new rear brake pads

• Apply a very thin layer of silicone brake grease to pad ears where they contact the hardware clips (not on friction material).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
• Install the slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Tighten slide-pin bolts with a torque wrench (3/8-inch drive): Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–10 on the opposite rear wheel.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the stands using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2-inch drive): Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 if needed.
• With the vehicle stationary, apply/release the parking brake to confirm normal feel.
• Test drive at low speed first and confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bed-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30 mph down to 5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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