How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2011-2016 Kia Sportage (Step-by-Step Guide) (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Tools, parts, safety tips, piston retraction (push-in vs twist-in), and torque specs for a proper install
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2011-2016 Kia Sportage (Step-by-Step Guide) (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Tools, parts, safety tips, piston retraction (push-in vs twist-in), and torque specs for a proper install for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Sportage - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
You’ll be removing the rear wheels, swinging the rear calipers out of the way, and swapping in new pads (plus the small metal hardware clips). The key is retracting the caliper piston correctly so the new, thicker pads fit and the brakes work safely.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧯 Support the Sportage on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🛑 Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks; the parking brake may be released during the job.
- 🧤 Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves; brake dust and cleaner are irritating.
- 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let everything cool before touching the calipers/rotors.
- 🚫 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed (it can push the piston out).
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- C-clamp brake piston tool
- Brake caliper wind-back tool (specialty)
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner
- Micrometer or brake pad thickness gauge (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3/DOT 4) - Qty: 1 bottle
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground and put the transmission in P.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks at the front tires.
- 🛑 Release the parking brake before starting rear brake work.
- 🧴 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap loosely set on top (this helps fluid return when you retract pistons).
- Assumption: Torque values below are common Sportage specs; verify if you have a different rear brake package.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts
- Use a 21mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel’s lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
Step 2: Raise and support the rear of the Sportage
- Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the proper jacking point.
- Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
Step 3: Remove the rear wheels
- Use a 21mm socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts and take off both rear wheels.
Step 4: Locate the caliper, pads, and caliper bracket
- The caliper is the clamp that squeezes the rotor; the caliper bracket is the larger mount holding the pads.
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear brakes; keep the rear hub straight.
Step 5: Remove the caliper mounting (slide pin) bolts
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the pads and rotor.
- Hang the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t pull on the brake hose.
Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware clips
- Pull the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck).
- Remove the metal abutment clips from the bracket.
Step 7: Clean and prep the bracket
- Spray the bracket contact areas with brake cleaner.
- Use a wire brush to clean rust where the pad clips sit until smooth.
- Install the new abutment clips from the hardware kit.
- Apply a very thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) on the clip “rails” where the pad ears slide.
- Tip: Pads must slide freely by hand.
Step 8: Retract the caliper piston (two possible designs)
- First check the piston face: if it has two notches/slots, it usually must be rotated while pushing in; if it’s smooth, it usually pushes straight in.
- Option A (push-in piston): Use a C-clamp brake piston tool to slowly press the piston straight back into the caliper.
- Option B (twist-in piston): Use a brake caliper wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate and press the piston in at the same time until fully seated.
- Watch the reservoir while compressing; if it rises near “MAX,” remove a small amount (do not spill on paint).
Step 9: Install the new pads
- Place the new inner and outer pads into the bracket on the new clips.
- Apply brake caliper grease (silicone-based) lightly to pad backing contact points (where they touch the caliper/bracket), but keep grease off pad friction material and the rotor.
Step 10: Reinstall the caliper
- Set the caliper back over the new pads.
- Install the slide pin bolts by hand first, then tighten with a 14mm socket.
- Torque to 25-35 Nm (18-26 ft-lbs) for caliper slide pin bolts.
Step 11: If you removed the caliper bracket (only if needed)
- If you chose to remove the bracket for cleaning, reinstall it using a 17mm socket.
- Torque to 70-90 Nm (52-66 ft-lbs) for caliper bracket bolts.
Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range): Torque to 90-110 Nm (66-81 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Restore brake pedal pressure
- With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- Check brake fluid level and top off with brake fluid (DOT 3/DOT 4) if needed.
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Start the engine and hold the brake pedal; confirm it stays firm and doesn’t sink.
- 🔍 Check both rear calipers for leaks and confirm the brake hose isn’t twisted.
- 🅿️ Apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal operation.
- 🚗 Do a careful test drive at low speed first; confirm no grinding or pulling.
- 🛣️ Pad bed-in (common method): make 6-10 smooth stops from ~50 km/h to ~15 km/h, letting brakes cool briefly between stops.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹4,000-₹9,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹1,800-₹5,500 (parts only)
You Save: ₹2,200-₹3,500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹600-₹1,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Rotor Set replace for these Kia vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2016 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2016 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2015 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2015 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2014 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2014 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2013 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2013 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2012 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2012 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2011 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2011 Kia Sportage | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |


















