🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear calipers, swap the old pads for new ones, then compress the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. Doing it carefully prevents brake noise, uneven wear, and sticking calipers.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting.
• 🛑 Support the Outback with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• 🛑 Keep brake cleaner off paint and rubber boots; use in a ventilated area.
• 🛑 Release the parking brake before starting (your Outback uses a mechanical parking brake that can hold the rear rotor).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• 14mm socket
• 14mm box-end wrench
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, shift to 1st gear, and fully release the parking brake.
• 🧰 Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
• 🧰 Crack the rear wheel lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• 🧰 Open the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top). This helps when you push the piston back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the approved rear jacking point.
• Set the Outback down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and confirm it’s stable.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (pad access)

• Locate the two caliper slide-pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the lower slide-pin bolt, then the upper slide-pin bolt.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord so it doesn’t pull on the brake hose.
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Remove the pad hardware/abutment clips from the bracket.
• Spray the bracket pad lands with brake parts cleaner spray and scrub with a wire brush. Wipe with shop rags.

Step 4: Check and service the slide pins

• Pull each slide pin out (one at a time).
• Wipe the old grease off with shop rags.
• Apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) and reinstall the pins so they move smoothly.
• Sticky pins cause uneven pad wear.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; if it gets too full, stop and remove a little fluid safely (do not spill on paint).

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new abutment clips from the rear brake hardware kit into the bracket.
• Apply a very thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad “ears” contact the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and tighten fasteners

• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• If the slide pin wants to spin, hold it with a 14mm box-end wrench while tightening the bolt.
• Install and tighten the slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range).

Step 8: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Lower the Outback off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• 🧪 Check brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap snugly.
• 🧪 Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm.
• 🧪 Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• 🧪 Bed-in the pads: make 6-10 medium stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, with a little driving between stops to cool them. Avoid hard stops for the first 150-200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $200-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.