🔧 Tucson - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Your Tucson’s rear brake pads clamp the rear rotors to slow the vehicle. Replacing worn pads restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage from metal-to-metal contact.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground; support the vehicle with jack stands before getting under/near the wheels.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels so the SUV can’t roll.
• 🔥 Brakes get hot; let everything cool before touching calipers/rotors.
• 🚫 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• 🧴 Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• 🔒 Your Tucson uses a mechanical parking brake (not an electronic one); keep the parking brake released while servicing the rear brakes.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Bungee cord

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; make sure it’s not already overfull since pushing pistons back can raise the fluid level.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift one side at a time with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and remove the lower/upper slide bolts

• Find the brake caliper (the “clamp” over the rotor).
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• If the slide pin wants to spin, hold it carefully and keep loosening the bolt. Go slow; don’t round the bolt.

Step 3: Swing the caliper up and support it

• Gently pry if needed with a flathead screwdriver to create a little space.
• Swing the caliper away from the pads, then hang it from the suspension with a bungee cord.
• Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where pads slide) using brake parts cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face to protect it.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while you compress; stop if it looks like it may overflow.

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) to the pad slide contact points (where pad ears touch the clips). Keep grease off pad friction material.
• Install the new pads into the bracket in the same orientation as the originals.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper back over the new pads.
• Reinstall the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range).

Step 8: If you removed the caliper bracket (only if needed)

• If you had to remove the bracket to clean or service, reinstall the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2" drive).
• Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range).

Step 9: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 90-110 Nm (66-81 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–9 on the other side. Replace rear pads as an axle set (both sides).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 8–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level in the reservoir and top off only if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm.
• Do a slow test drive and make a few gentle stops; avoid hard braking for the first 150-200 miles if possible. Helps pads bed-in evenly.
• Listen for grinding or constant dragging; if present, recheck pad fit and slide pin movement.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.