🔧 Terrain - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal damage to your rotors. You’ll remove the rear caliper, swap the pads/hardware, compress the caliper piston, then reassemble and bed-in the pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: rear brakes are the standard sliding-caliper setup; bolt heads may vary.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the Terrain with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (the parking brake is separate and can drag the rotor).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Keep grease off pad friction surfaces and rotor faces.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torx T55 bit socket
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Pop the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (do not remove it completely). This helps the piston push back easier.
• Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket and place it under the rocker area as an extra safety measure.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and identify the fasteners

• The caliper is the clamp that squeezes the pads; the caliper bracket is the fixed mount the pads slide in.
• Find the two smaller caliper guide/slide pin bolts (these hold the caliper to the bracket).
• Fastener head styles vary: use a 13mm socket or Torx T55 bit socket on the guide bolts, and typically an 18mm socket on bracket bolts if bracket removal is needed.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not let it hang)

• Remove the two guide/slide pin bolts using a 3/8" ratchet with a 13mm socket or Torx T55 bit socket.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware clips

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Spray the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) with brake cleaner spray and scrub with a wire brush until smooth.
• Clean metal helps pads slide freely.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir—if it rises near the top, pause and remove a little fluid (do not overflow).

Step 6: Lubricate the correct spots and install new clips/pads

• Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to:
  • The pad “ears” where they touch the clips
  • The back of the pads where they contact the caliper/piston
• Slide the new pads into the bracket (they should move smoothly).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the guide/slide pin bolts using a 3/8" ratchet with a 13mm socket or Torx T55 bit socket.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper guide/slide pin bolts.

Step 8: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–8 on the other side. Replace rear pads as a set (both sides).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap.
• Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in the pads: make 8–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, with short cool-down driving between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $205-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.