🔧 Expedition - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take the brake calipers off, swap in new pads, then reinstall everything with the correct torque. This restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: your Expedition has rear disc brakes with a drum-in-hat parking brake.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat surface and chock the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, don’t blow with air.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Keep grease off pad friction material and rotor faces.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30–250 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (3/8" drive)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat trim tool
• Small wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 (optional if worn/grooved)
• Rear caliper slide pin boot kit - Qty: 1 (optional if boots are torn)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s near MAX, be ready to remove a little fluid if it rises when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear with a floor jack under the rear axle/differential area (solid lift point), then set the frame/axle securely on jack stands.
• Give the truck a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before you work.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (leave the hose connected)

• Locate the two caliper guide/slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Remove both bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor. If it’s stuck, gently pry with a flat trim tool.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension with a bungee cord so the brake hose is not stretched.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• If your new pad set includes new stainless “abutment clips” (the shiny pad slides), remove the old ones from the bracket using a flat trim tool.

Step 5: Inspect the rotor and parking brake (quick checks)

• Spray the rotor face with brake parts cleaner spray and wipe clean.
• If the rotor is deeply grooved, cracked, or very rusty where the pads ride, replace rotors in pairs.
• Look inside the “hat” area of the rotor (the drum section) for obvious loose parking brake hardware. Don’t disassemble unless needed.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Remove the old inner pad and place it against the piston to protect it.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston straight back into the caliper.
• C-clamp = a screw clamp that pushes evenly. Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir level.

Step 7: Clean and lube the slide pins

• Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
• Clean with brake parts cleaner spray and a small wire brush.
• Apply a thin, even coat of brake caliper grease (silicone) and reinstall the pins.
• If a rubber boot is torn or a pin is rusty/pitted, replace the boot kit before continuing.

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new abutment clips into the bracket (if provided) by pressing them into place by hand.
• Apply a very thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears touch the clips. Do not grease pad faces.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Position the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Reinstall the guide/slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–9 on the other rear wheel.
• Always replace brake pads as an axle set.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck enough that the tires touch the ground and won’t spin.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Seat the pads before driving

• With the engine off, slowly press the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal feels firm and normal.
• Test brakes at low speed in a safe area first.
• Perform a gentle bed-in: make 6–10 smooth stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops to cool.
• Recheck for leaks, abnormal noises, or a pulling sensation.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹9,000-₹18,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹3,000-₹9,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹6,000-₹9,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,500-₹3,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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