🔧 Santa Fe - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe braking and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. You’ll remove the rear caliper, swap the pads (and hardware), and retract the caliper piston so everything fits back together.

Assumption: Your Santa Fe has an electronic parking brake (EPB); steps include EPB “service mode” options.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ If equipped with EPB, do not press the parking brake switch with calipers removed.
• ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal while a caliper is off; the piston can pop out and leak.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep grease and brake fluid off pad friction surfaces and rotors.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for pad replacement, but keep the ignition OFF during EPB service mode.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Scan tool with EPB service function (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and place the transmission in P.
• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake before lifting (EPB must be OFF).
• EPB service mode: Use a scan tool with EPB service function (specialty) if available. This retracts the EPB motor so the piston can be pushed in safely.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. You’ll watch the level as you compress the pistons so it doesn’t overflow.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the rear

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to crack the rear lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).
• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved rear jacking point, then set the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 2: Put the EPB into service mode (if equipped)

• Connect a scan tool with EPB service function (specialty) and command EPB Maintenance/Pad Replacement Mode (wording varies by tool).
• Keep the ignition OFF unless your scan tool instructs otherwise.
• If no scan tool, do not force the piston.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (do not hang it by the hose)

• Turn the steering slightly if needed for access, then locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “shelves” with brake cleaner spray and a wire brush until smooth (pads must slide freely).

Step 5: Retract (push in) the caliper piston

• Check brake fluid level at the reservoir before compressing. If it’s near MAX, remove a small amount using a clean method to prevent overflow.
• Position the old inner pad against the piston, then use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Go slow and steady. If it won’t compress, stop—EPB may not be fully in service mode.

Step 6: Lubricate contact points and install new hardware

• Install new abutment clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears touch the clips (metal-to-metal only).
• Keep grease off pad friction material.

Step 7: Install new pads

• Slide the new pads into the bracket until they sit flat and move smoothly.
• If your pad set includes a wear indicator, install it in the same position as the old one.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners

• Set the caliper back over the new pads.
• Reinstall the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 ft-lbs range).
• If you removed the caliper bracket (not always required), reinstall bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench and Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–8 on the other side. Always replace pads on both rear wheels as a pair.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the SUV off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 122 Nm (90 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• If you used a scan tool, command EPB to exit service mode and apply/release the parking brake once.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test at low speed in a safe area. Confirm normal braking and no warning lights.
• Pad break-in: make 6–10 gentle stops from 30–35 mph, letting brakes cool between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $240-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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