🔧 SRX - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage from worn pads. You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the calipers out of the way, swap the pads and hardware, then pump the brake pedal to seat everything.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your SRX with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves; brake dust and cleaner are irritating.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let them cool before touching.
• 🧵 Do not let the caliper hang by the hose; support it with a caliper hanger hook (a simple metal hook).
• 🚫 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket (1/2" drive)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Socket set (3/8" drive, metric)
• 14mm socket (3/8" drive)
• 18mm socket (1/2" drive)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Fluid level may rise when compressing pistons.
• Assumption: your SRX uses a standard rear caliper piston that pushes straight in (not an electronic parking brake caliper).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the approved jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and inspect

• Turn the steering wheel slightly if you need more arm room (rear access is usually straightforward).
• Look at pad thickness and rotor surface. Use a flashlight if needed (phone light is fine).

Step 3: Remove the caliper guide pin bolts

• Remove the lower and upper caliper guide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension with a brake caliper hanger hook.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “shelves” (where clips sit) using brake parts cleaner spray and a wire brush, then wipe with shop towels.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face (this protects the piston).
• Use a C-clamp (6" or larger) to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. If it gets too full, remove a small amount with a clean towel (do not spill on paint).

Step 6: Install new hardware clips and lubricate

• Snap the new pad clips into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) where the pad ears touch the clips. Thin layer only—no blobs.
• If your new pads include a wear indicator, match its position to how the old pads were installed.

Step 7: Install the new pads

• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand. They should slide freely with light resistance.
• If they bind, remove and re-clean the bracket surfaces using brake parts cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the guide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper guide pin bolts.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Seat the pads

• With the engine OFF, slowly pump the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal feels normal (not sinking).
• Do a low-speed test in a safe area: gentle stops first, then normal stops.
• Listen for abnormal grinding or clunking; a light “whoosh” is normal for new pads.
• Pad bed-in (recommended): make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops. Avoid hard stops for 200 miles.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$420 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.