🔧 Tucson - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Tucson means removing the rear wheels, taking the rear brake caliper off, swapping the pads and hardware, then reinstalling everything with the correct torque. This restores braking performance and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Keep the parking brake RELEASED while servicing rear brakes.
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 If brake fluid is near “MAX,” fluid may overflow when compressing pistons.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 Optional if worn/grooved

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully (your Tucson uses a mechanical parking brake).
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s at the top, siphon a little to prevent overflow when pushing pistons back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen rear wheel lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel lug nut about 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at a safe jacking point.
• Set the SUV onto jack stands and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts with the 21mm socket and take the wheels off.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper (pads are inside)

• Turn the steering wheel slightly if needed for hand clearance, but keep the vehicle stable on stands.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.
• Never hang the caliper by the hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless abutment clips (hardware) using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Spray the bracket pad lands with brake cleaner spray and scrub with a wire brush until smooth.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" or larger) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood for overflow.
• Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new abutment clips onto the bracket by hand (they should “snap” into place).
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket in the same orientation as removed.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Reinstall the caliper slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 4–8 on the other rear wheel.
• Replace rear pads as an axle set (both sides).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the SUV off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: 90–110 Nm (66–81 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Do a cautious test drive: verify normal braking and no pulling or grinding.
• Pad bed-in: make 6–10 gentle stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, letting brakes cool slightly between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $200-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.