🔧 Corolla - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Your Corolla came with two possible rear brake setups: rear disc brakes (pads) or rear drum brakes (shoes). The steps, parts, and tools are different, so the first thing you’ll do is a quick visual check, then follow the matching procedure.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–3.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat surface and support the car with jack stands, not just a jack.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, don’t blow with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake fluid reservoir cap on loosely; don’t let fluid overflow when compressing pistons.
• ⚠️ If you’re working on drums, release the parking brake or the drum won’t come off.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (30–150 ft-lbs)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• 21mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire brush
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• C-clamp (6")
• Bungee cord
• Brake spring pliers (specialty)
• Drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty)
• Brake adjusting spoon (specialty)
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Rear brake shoes set - Qty: 1
• Rear drum brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake only until you’re ready to remove rear wheels.
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands under solid rear support points.
• Remove both rear wheels so you can compare left vs right if you get confused.
• Take a photo before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify if you have rear disc or rear drum brakes

• Look behind the rear wheel area after wheel removal.
• If you see a caliper squeezing a flat rotor, you have rear disc brakes (pads).
• If you see a closed, round drum (like a metal “bowl”), you have rear drum brakes (shoes).

Step 2A (Rear Disc): Remove the caliper

• Make sure the parking brake is released.
• Turn the steering wheel doesn’t matter (rear), but position yourself for access.
• Remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off and support it with a bungee cord (don’t let it hang by the brake hose).

Step 3A (Rear Disc): Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad hardware clips from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with brake cleaner and a wire brush.

Step 4A (Rear Disc): Compress the caliper piston

• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level (it may rise).
• Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) or a 6" C-clamp to push the piston back slowly.
• A piston compressor is a tool that presses the piston straight back into the caliper so new, thicker pads will fit.
• Go slow to avoid fluid overflow.

Step 5A (Rear Disc): Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where pads contact the clips (not on pad friction material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 6A (Rear Disc): Reinstall caliper and torque fasteners

• Set the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• If you removed the caliper bracket (only if needed), reinstall bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).

Step 2B (Rear Drum): Remove the brake drum

• Fully release the parking brake.
• Pull the drum straight off by hand.
• If stuck, tap around the drum face with a rubber mallet.
• If still stuck, back off the adjuster through the access slot using a flathead screwdriver and brake adjusting spoon (specialty).

Step 3B (Rear Drum): Remove the shoes and springs (one side at a time)

• Spray the assembly with brake cleaner and let it drip dry.
• Remove hold-down springs using a drum brake hold-down spring tool (specialty).
• Remove return springs using brake spring pliers (specialty).
• Disconnect the adjuster and parking brake lever/cable as needed using needle-nose pliers.
• Do one side at a time as a reference.

Step 4B (Rear Drum): Install new shoes and hardware

• Compare the new shoes to the old ones to ensure the same shape and orientation.
• Install the new hardware kit pieces in the same locations as removed.
• Apply a tiny dab of high-temp silicone brake grease on the backing plate “shoe contact pads” (the raised rub points).
• Reinstall the adjuster and set it to a starting position (not fully tight).

Step 5B (Rear Drum): Reinstall drum and adjust

• Slide the drum back on by hand.
• If it won’t go on, shorten the adjuster using a brake adjusting spoon (specialty).
• Adjust so the drum turns with a light, even drag (not locked).

Step 7: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car to the ground.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm before driving.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Test at low speed first; confirm the car stops straight and no grinding noises.
• Pad break-in (disc): make 6–10 gentle stops from 30–5 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.
• Drum adjustment check: ensure the parking brake holds properly after a few stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.