🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear calipers up, swap the old pads for new ones, and compress the caliper piston so everything fits back together. This restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal rotor damage when pads are worn.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Accord with jack stands before going under or pulling wheels.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels and keep the parking brake released (rear pads won’t come off correctly if the parking brake is applied).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy; avoid blowing it with compressed air. Use brake cleaner instead.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet
• Caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a flat surface, turn the engine off, and put the transmission in Park.
• Place wheel chocks at the front tires.
• Release the parking brake fully.
• Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; when you compress the pistons, the level may rise.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen (do not remove) the lug nuts on both rear wheels.

Step 2: Jack up and support the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear center jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear side support points.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take both rear wheels off.

Step 3: Locate the rear caliper and remove the slide pin bolts

• Find the rear brake caliper (the part that squeezes the rotor) on one side.
• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (upper and lower).
• Tip: Start with one side so you can compare.

Step 4: Lift the caliper off and support it

• Carefully lift the caliper off the pads. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper using a caliper hanger hook (specialty) so the brake hose isn’t stretched.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket by hand or with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket “pad seats” (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 6: Check the rotor and caliper slides

• Inspect the rotor surfaces. Deep grooves, cracking, or heavy rust ridges can mean the rotors should be replaced.
• Check the slide pins move smoothly (slide pins are the small pins the caliper rides on). If they’re stuck, stop and tell me before forcing anything.

Step 7: Install the new pad hardware and grease contact points

• Snap the new hardware clips from your kit into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease where the pad “ears” touch the clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or the rotor.

Step 8: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood by hand (this helps fluid move back).
• Place one old brake pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston all the way back into the caliper.
• Watch the fluid level in the reservoir; if it gets too high, stop and remove a little fluid safely.
• Tip: Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• If one pad has a wear indicator, match it to how the old pads were installed on that side.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper and tighten bolts

• Lower the caliper back over the new pads by hand.
• Install the two slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 26 N·m (19 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper slide pin bolts.

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 3–10 on the other rear side, using the same 12mm socket, C-clamp, and torque wrench.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Put both rear wheels back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 19mm socket.
• Torque to 108 N·m (80 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid for your Accord.
• Start the car and confirm the pedal is firm before moving.
• Do a slow test drive and confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• Tip: Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $200-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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