🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads means removing the rear caliper, swapping the old pads for new ones, and correctly “resetting” the caliper piston so everything fits and works safely. On your Accord, the rear piston typically needs to be rotated while being pushed in, not just pressed straight in.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground; chock the front wheels so the car can’t roll.
• 🧯 Never rely on a floor jack alone—support the rear with jack stands.
• 🧤 Brake dust is nasty—wear gloves and a dust mask; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let everything cool before touching the rotor/caliper.
• 🧪 Watch the brake fluid level as you push pistons back; it can overflow.
• 🪝 Do not let the caliper hang by the hose—support it with a hanger.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• Flat trim tool
• Brake piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 (as needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the car in 1st gear, and chock both front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully (rear brakes are tied to it).
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Leave the cap loosely set on top. Helps prevent pressure buildup.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen rear wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to crack the lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Raise and support the rear

• Lift with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear support points.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using the 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet, then remove the wheel.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper (do not open the hose)

• Find the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Use a 12mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to remove the slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord or mechanics wire.
• A “slide pin” is the smooth pin the caliper moves on; it helps the pads wear evenly.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flat trim tool gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Spray the bracket areas with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop towels.

Step 6: Clean bracket “lands” and install new hardware

• Use a wire brush to clean the pad contact points (“lands”) on the bracket until smooth.
• Install the new pad clips from the hardware kit.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad ears touch the clips. Thin layer only—no globs.

Step 7: Retract the rear caliper piston (rotate while pushing)

• Use a brake piston wind-back tool (specialty) to push the piston in while turning it.
• Turn slowly and steadily until the piston is fully seated.
• If the piston won’t go in, stop and re-check that the parking brake is fully released.
• A wind-back tool is a tool that presses and twists the piston at the same time (required on many rear calipers).

Step 8: Install new rear pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads slide freely in the clips (no binding).

Step 9: Reinstall caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Reinstall the slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• If you removed the caliper bracket (only if needed): reinstall bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and torque wrench, then Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Snug them with a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times before driving until it feels firm. This seats the pads.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off with DOT 3 only if needed.
• Do a slow test drive and confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): make 6–8 medium stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, with cool-down time between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40–$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130–$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.