🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear calipers up, swap the old pads for new ones, and retract the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. On your Accord, the rear caliper piston typically must be rotated while being pushed in because the parking-brake mechanism is built into the caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: stock rear disc brakes with mechanical (non-electronic) parking brake.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the Accord with jack stands before going under or removing wheels.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before retracting rear pistons, or you can damage parts.
• ⚠️ Don’t breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a mask.
• ⚠️ Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook or bungee.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lb range)
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• Flat trim tool
• Disc brake piston wind-back tool kit (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord or brake caliper hook
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and put the transmission in 1st gear.
• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Open the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top). This helps the pistons push back easier.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands at the rear support points and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 3: Locate the caliper bolts and remove the caliper

• Turn the steering wheel slightly if you need better access; the rear caliper is on the back of the rear rotor.
• Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord or caliper hook.
• Tip: Don’t twist or stretch the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old inner and outer pads out by hand. Use a flat trim tool if they’re stuck.
• Remove the old pad clips/hardware from the caliper bracket using a flat trim tool.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 5: Retract (push back) the rear caliper piston

• Check brake fluid level in the reservoir. If it’s near MAX, remove a little with a towel (do not overflow).
• Use a disc brake piston wind-back tool kit (specialty) to push and rotate the piston in at the same time.
  • This tool is a small press that turns while pushing; it’s needed because the rear piston usually has a screw mechanism for the parking brake.
  • Rotate the piston clockwise while applying steady pressure until it bottoms out.
• Make sure the piston face ends up aligned so the pad’s locating pin (if equipped) will sit correctly.

Step 6: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips/hardware onto the bracket by hand (they should snap into place).
• Apply a thin film of silicone brake lubricant on the metal pad ears where they touch the hardware.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Tip: Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install and tighten the slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• If you removed the caliper bracket (only if needed for stuck hardware), reinstall bracket bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 3–7 on the other rear side.
• Tip: Do one side at a time to compare parts.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top up only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
• With the car still parked, apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal feel.
• Test-drive at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad break-in (bedding): make 6–8 moderate stops from ~35 mph to ~5 mph, with 30 seconds between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.