How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2008-2017 Honda Accord (Rear Caliper Wind-Back Guide) (Trim: EX | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs for reassembly
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2008-2017 Honda Accord (Rear Caliper Wind-Back Guide) (Trim: EX | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs for reassembly for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Your Accord’s rear brake pads wear down over time and need replacement to keep braking strong and quiet. On your Accord, the rear caliper piston typically must be rotated while being pushed in because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on level ground and chock the front wheels so the car can’t roll.
- Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers won’t come off correctly if it’s engaged).
- Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- Do not breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner spray to rinse parts, not compressed air.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook.
- Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Bungee cord or caliper hook
- Rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner spray
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake hardware kit (pad abutment clips) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock both front wheels.
- Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap sitting on top (not tightened). This helps fluid move when the piston is pushed in.
- Take a photo of pad/clip layout first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the rear lug nuts
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the car is still on the ground.
Step 2: Lift and support the rear of the car
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jacking point.
- Place jack stands under solid rear support points and lower the car onto them.
- Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.
Step 3: Remove the rear wheels
- Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and take the wheels off.
Step 4: Remove the rear caliper (keep the hose safe)
- Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back side of the caliper.
- Use a 12mm socket (and a 14mm socket if needed on some hardware) with a ratchet to remove the caliper bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord or caliper hook.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently help with a flat-head screwdriver.
- Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket (use the flat-head screwdriver if needed).
- Use brake cleaner spray and a wire brush to clean the bracket pad “rails” where the clips sit until they’re smooth.
Step 6: Check slide pins and re-grease
- Pull the caliper slide pins out one at a time (by hand) and wipe them clean.
- Apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease to each pin and reinstall them (they should glide smoothly).
- Reinstall the new abutment clips into the bracket (press them fully into place).
Step 7: Retract the rear caliper piston (rotate + push)
- Look at the piston face: it usually has notches. This style must be turned while being pushed in.
- Use a rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate the piston clockwise while applying inward pressure until the piston is fully seated.
- Wind-back tool definition: A tool that turns the piston while pushing it inward so it can fit over the new thicker pads.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while you compress the piston; if it gets close to overflowing, remove a small amount (use needle-nose pliers only to handle the cap/area—do not contaminate fluid).
Step 8: Install the new pads
- Apply a light smear of brake caliper grease to the pad “ears” where they touch the clips (do not get grease on the pad friction material).
- Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket.
- If your new pads include shims, install them exactly as the old ones were (use your photo).
Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners
- Lower the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts: Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).
- If you removed the caliper bracket bolts (some pad jobs require it for cleaning): use a 17mm socket to tighten bracket bolts: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Use a torque wrench with a 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Before driving, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
- Re-check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT brake fluid shown on the reservoir cap).
- Test at low speed first: confirm normal braking and no pulling/noises.
- Pad bedding (recommended): Make 6-8 smooth stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, with light cooling time between stops.
- After a short drive, re-check lug nut torque with the torque wrench.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $205-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2017 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2017 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2017 Honda Accord | Sport | - | Sedan |
| 2017 Honda Accord | Touring | - | Sedan |
| 2017 Honda Accord | Hybrid | - | Sedan |
| 2017 Honda Accord | Hybrid EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2017 Honda Accord | Hybrid Touring | - | Sedan |
| 2016 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2016 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2016 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2016 Honda Accord | Sport | - | Sedan |
| 2016 Honda Accord | Touring | - | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Accord | Sport | - | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Accord | Touring | - | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Accord | Hybrid | - | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Accord | Hybrid EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2015 Honda Accord | Hybrid Touring | - | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Accord | Sport | - | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Accord | Touring | - | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Accord | Hybrid | - | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Accord | Hybrid EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2014 Honda Accord | Hybrid Touring | - | Sedan |
| 2013 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2013 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2013 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2013 Honda Accord | Sport | - | Sedan |
| 2013 Honda Accord | Touring | - | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Accord | LX-P | - | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Accord | SE | - | Sedan |
| 2011 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2011 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2011 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2011 Honda Accord | LX-P | - | Sedan |
| 2011 Honda Accord | SE | - | Sedan |
| 2010 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2010 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2010 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2010 Honda Accord | LX-P | - | Sedan |
| 2009 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2009 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2009 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2009 Honda Accord | LX-P | - | Sedan |
| 2008 Honda Accord | EX | - | Sedan |
| 2008 Honda Accord | EX-L | - | Sedan |
| 2008 Honda Accord | LX | - | Sedan |
| 2008 Honda Accord | LX-P | - | Sedan |


















