🔧 Civic - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers out of the way, swap the old pads for new ones, then compress the caliper piston so everything fits back together. This restores safe braking and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Civic on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧯 Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it with air; use brake cleaner instead.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let parts cool before touching.
• 🧷 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• 🪢 Don’t let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose—support it with a bungee cord.
• 🅿️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers won’t move freely if it’s on).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6-inch minimum)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• High-temp silicone brake grease
• Disposable gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors (optional, replace in pairs) - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in 1st gear, and turn the engine off.
• Release the parking brake.
• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll re-check the level after compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at a safe jacking point.
• Place jack stands under solid rear support points and lower the car onto them.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Inspect the caliper and rotor

• Look at the rotor surface for deep grooves or heavy rust.
• Check for brake fluid leaks around the caliper.
• Spray dusty areas with brake cleaner spray (don’t inhale the mist).

Step 4: Remove the caliper bolts

• On the back of the caliper, remove the two slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so the hose is not stretched.
• Slide pins are the caliper’s moving bolts.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• If the stainless clips (hardware) are being replaced, pry them off carefully using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” (where pads slide) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp to slowly compress the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir; if it rises near “MAX,” remove a little fluid (don’t overflow).
• The piston is the round part that pushes pads.

Step 7: Install new hardware and grease contact points

• Install new pad clips/hardware onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease to the pad “ears” where they touch the clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 8: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Make sure the pads slide smoothly in the clips (no binding).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide-pin bolts by hand first, then tighten using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 10: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 3–9 for the other rear wheel.
• Work one side at a time so you can reference the assembled side if needed.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, slowly pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level and top off only if needed.
• Test at low speed first: confirm normal braking and no grinding noises.
• Pad break-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, with cooling time between stops.
• If you hear squealing or feel vibration, re-check pad fit and hardware seating.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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