🔧 Yukon - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers out of the way, replace the pads and hardware, then compress the caliper pistons and reassemble. Doing it carefully prevents brake noise, uneven wear, and a low brake pedal.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: your Yukon has rear disc brakes with a mechanical parking brake (no EPB).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and support the truck with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Release the parking brake before starting (rear rotors can be held by the parking brake shoes).
• 🛑 Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hook/strap.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 22mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Large C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (optional if worn/grooved)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Open the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (don’t remove it completely). This helps the pistons push back easier.
• Turn the steering wheel straight and keep the key off.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the rear

• Use a 22mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Use a floor jack to lift the rear and place jack stands under the frame.
• Remove the wheels using the 22mm socket.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and remove the slide (guide) pin bolts

• Find the rear caliper (the part that clamps the rotor).
• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (upper and lower).
• If tight, steady pressure beats jerking.

Step 3: Lift off and support the caliper

• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward a little if it’s stuck.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a bungee cord.
• Do not stretch or twist the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (abutment clips) from the bracket.
• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the pad “landing areas” where the clips sit.

Step 5: Check rotor condition

• Inspect both sides of the rotor surface. Deep grooves, heavy rust scaling, or cracking means the rotor should be replaced.
• Spray the rotor face with brake cleaner and wipe with a clean rag.

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new abutment clips into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) on the clip surfaces where the pad ears slide. Thin coat only—no blobs.
• Slide the new pads into the bracket (inner pad goes on the inboard side).

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a large C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir as you compress; if it gets too full, remove a little fluid using a suction tool (do not overflow).
• Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 8: Reinstall caliper and torque fasteners

• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Reinstall the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 42 Nm (31 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the Yukon off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench with a 22mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Seat the pads before driving

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Re-tighten the brake fluid reservoir cap by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal stays firm.
• Do a slow test in a safe area: gentle stops at 5-15 mph, listening for clunks or grinding.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 8-10 medium stops from 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing 30-60 seconds between stops for cooling.
• Recheck brake fluid level and look for leaks around the calipers.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $170-$590 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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