🔧 Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Sierra means removing the rear caliper, swapping the pads, then compressing the caliper piston and reassembling everything to spec. Since rear brakes also handle the parking brake mechanism, take your time and make sure the pads move freely before you finish.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• Use jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• The brakes may be hot if the truck was just driven.
• Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• Support the caliper with wire or a hook. Do not let it hang by the hose.
• If your truck has a parking brake applied on that axle, release it before service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated for truck weight)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• C-clamp
• Brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord or caliper hanger
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake if the rear axle is not being serviced yet. Then release it before pad removal if needed for caliper access.
• Put the transmission in Park and chock the front wheels.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
• If the brake fluid reservoir is full, open it carefully before compressing the pistons so pressure does not build up.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the rear of the truck

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear axle or rear frame safely.
• Place jack stands under the frame and lower the truck onto them.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the caliper

• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the rear caliper guide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord or caliper hanger.
• Do not let the hose stretch.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to remove any pad clips or anti-rattle hardware.
• Inspect the bracket for rust or grooves.

Step 4: Clean and prep the bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean the pad contact points on the bracket.
• Spray the bracket with brake cleaner and wipe it dry with shop towels.
• Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the pad contact points only.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a Brake caliper compression tool (specialty) or C-clamp to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Compress it evenly and stop if resistance feels abnormal.
• Go slow to avoid seal damage.

Step 6: Install the new pads

• Install the new hardware clips if included.
• Fit the new rear brake pads into the bracket in the same position as the old ones.
• Make sure the pads sit flat and move freely.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the guide pin bolts by hand first, then tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper guide pin bolts.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Reinstall the rear wheels and start the lug nuts by hand.
• Lower the truck with the floor jack.
• Tighten the lug nuts with a torque wrench in a star pattern.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs) for the wheel lug nuts.

Step 9: Seat the brakes

• Before moving the truck, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test the brakes at low speed first.

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✅ After Repair

• Make a slow test drive in a safe area.
• Listen for scraping, clicking, or pulling.
• Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive.
• For new pads, avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles if possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $280-$480 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $70-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$320 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.