🔧 Equinox - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear calipers, swapping in new pads, and making sure the caliper slides smoothly so the brakes wear evenly. On your Equinox, the rear caliper piston presses straight back in (it does not screw in).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (3/8" drive)
• C-clamp (6")
• Large flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake anti-squeal compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap sitting loosely on top so pressure can vent while you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack at the rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands and gently shake-test for stability.
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and pads

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself to see the caliper.
• Identify the caliper (the part that squeezes the rotor) and the caliper bracket (the larger mount behind it). Caliper bracket holds the pads.

Step 3: Remove the caliper slide bolts

• Remove the two caliper slide/guide bolts using a 13mm socket, ratchet, and extension.
• If the caliper wants to spring outward, gently pry a little using a large flathead screwdriver between the old pad and rotor to create room.

Step 4: Support the caliper (do not hang it)

• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out by hand. If they’re stuck, use a large flathead screwdriver carefully.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using needle-nose pliers.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” with a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner spray.

Step 6: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Remove the reservoir cap (or keep it loose) to prevent pressure buildup.
• Place the old inner pad against the piston face, then compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp (6").
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid level so it doesn’t overflow. Slow compression protects the seals.

Step 7: Service the caliper slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand (they’re the smooth pins the caliper moves on).
• Wipe them clean and apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone).
• Reinstall the pins and make sure they move smoothly.

Step 8: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips into the bracket.
• Apply a very light film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears touch the clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).
• Install the new pads into the bracket in the same orientation as the old ones.
• Apply brake anti-squeal compound to the pad backing plate where it contacts the caliper (do not get any on friction material).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Set the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the slide/guide bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 10: If you removed the bracket (only if needed)

• If you had to remove the caliper bracket for any reason, reinstall the bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm before driving.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Do a low-speed test in a safe area: verify normal stopping and no pulling/noise.
• Pad break-in: make 8-10 medium stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, with cool-down driving between stops (no panic stops unless needed).
• If you hear scraping after the job, re-check pad clip seating and that the dust shield isn’t bent into the rotor.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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