🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers out of the way, swap the old pads for new ones, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. Rear pads wear over time, and replacing them restores braking power and prevents rotor damage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Explorer with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear brakes won’t come apart correctly if it’s applied).
• ⚠️ Don’t breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner and avoid compressed air.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hanger/strap.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when compressing the caliper piston; go slow to avoid fluid overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pop the hood and loosen (do not remove) the brake fluid reservoir cap so fluid can return when you compress the pistons.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose before lifting: use a 19mm socket and breaker bar.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear, then set the frame on jack stands.
• Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it’s stable on the stands.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the caliper guide bolts

• Turn the steering of your body position (not the wheels) so you can see the back of the caliper.
• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper guide/slide bolts (upper and lower).
• Tip: Keep bolts from each side separate.

Step 4: Support the caliper

• Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord so the brake hose isn’t strained.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old inner and outer pads out by hand. If tight, use a flathead screwdriver to nudge them out.
• Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the caliper bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the clips sit) using brake parts cleaner and a wire brush.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one of the old pads against the piston face, then use a C-clamp to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid level as you compress—if it gets too high, stop and remove a little fluid from the reservoir.
• Tip: Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new abutment clips onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease where the pad “ears” contact the clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).
• Install the new pads into the bracket (inner and outer). They should slide freely.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper guide/slide bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 24 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the Explorer off the stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Restore pedal feel and fluid level

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.
• Tighten the brake fluid reservoir cap by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• Do a slow test in a safe area: confirm normal braking and no pulling or grinding.
• Listen for abnormal noises; a light “shhh” is normal at first, but loud scraping is not.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops for cooling.
• Re-check brake fluid level after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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