🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing your rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. On your Grand Cherokee, the parking brake is separate (a small drum brake inside the rotor “hat”), so the rear caliper piston typically pushes straight in.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it out; use brake cleaner and let it drip into a drain pan.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Drain pan
• Gloves (nitrile)
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic caliper grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; as you compress the caliper piston, the level can rise.
• Take a photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the rear

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear lug nuts about 1 turn (don’t remove yet).
• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at a proper rear jacking point, then set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with the 21mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and pads

• Turn the steering wheel slightly if you need more room to see (rear access is usually straight-on).
• Identify the caliper (the clamp) and the rotor (the disc). The pads sit inside the caliper bracket.

Step 3: Remove the caliper slide pin bolts

• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive) to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (upper and lower).
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry between the pad and rotor a little.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord from the suspension spring. A bungee cord is an elastic strap that holds the caliper so the brake hose isn’t strained.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove the pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the pad “landing” areas where the clips sit.
• Spray the bracket with brake cleaner spray over a drain pan and let it drip dry.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the caliper piston, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Go slow and keep the piston straight so it doesn’t bind.
• If brake fluid gets close to overflowing in the reservoir, stop and remove a little fluid safely.
• Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 6: Install new hardware clips and lubricate contact points

• Install the new clips from the rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic caliper grease) where the pads slide on the clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor.

Step 7: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure they slide freely in the clips (no sticking).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque the slide pin bolts

• Set the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive).
• Tighten using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range): Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–8 on the other side. Replace pads as a set (both rear wheels).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Do a slow test drive and confirm normal braking with no pulling or grinding.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.
• If you notice dragging, re-check that the pads slide freely and the caliper bolts are torqued.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60–$150 (parts only)

You Save: $190–$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.