🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear calipers (the clamp that squeezes the brake pads onto the rotor), swap in new pads/hardware, then compress the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. This restores braking performance and prevents metal-to-metal damage to the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Release the parking brake before starting; the rear brakes include a separate parking brake inside the rotor “hat.”
• Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing pistons; fluid can overflow.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6-inch minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 (top-off as needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in P, and release the parking brake.
• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll re-check the level later.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear support points.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and pads

• Find the rear caliper (the clamp-like part over the rotor) and the caliper bracket behind it.
• Turn the steering is not needed for the rear; just make sure you have room to work.

Step 3: Remove the caliper slide pin bolts

• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• If the slide pin wants to spin, hold the pin flats with an 18mm wrench while loosening with the 13mm socket.

Step 4: Remove and support the caliper

• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if it’s tight.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension spring with a bungee cord.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware clips

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware/abutment clips using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the pad “rails” on the bracket using a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a C-clamp (6-inch minimum) to slowly push the caliper piston back in (a C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses parts together).
• Place one old brake pad against the piston face, then tighten the C-clamp until the piston is fully seated.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood; if it gets too full, remove a small amount (do not overflow onto paint).
• Go slow to avoid damaging the piston seal.

Step 7: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Install the new hardware/abutment clips onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears slide on the clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor.

Step 8: Install the new rear pads

• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure they move freely in the clips (not jammed).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Reinstall the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet, holding with an 18mm wrench if needed.
• Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 2–9 on the other rear wheel.
• Replace rear pads as a pair (both sides) to keep braking even.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Test at low speed first. Confirm normal braking and no pulling or grinding noises.
• Pad bedding (recommended): make 6–8 medium stops from 30–40 mph with cool-down time between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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