🔧 CR-V - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers up, replace the pads, and retract the rear caliper pistons so everything fits back together. On your CR-V, the rear piston typically needs to be turned while being pushed in because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat, level surface and support your CR-V with jack stands—never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Release the parking brake before starting (the rear brakes won’t come apart correctly if it’s on).
• 🛑 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner (don’t blow with compressed air).
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a strap.
• 🛑 Keep fingers clear when retracting the piston and reinstalling the caliper.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Short extension (3")
• Flathead screwdriver
• Rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Crack (loosen) the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; don’t remove the cap yet, but be aware the level may rise when pistons are pushed back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) at the rear support points and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels.

Step 3: Locate the caliper and remove the lower slide pin bolt

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself for access.
• Remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
• If the slide pin tries to spin, hold it carefully while loosening. Steady pressure beats sudden jerks.

Step 4: Swing the caliper up and support it

• Pry gently if needed with a flathead screwdriver, then swing the caliper upward like a hinge.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t pull on the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull out the inner and outer pads by hand.
• Remove the pad hardware/abutment clips from the caliper bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) using brake cleaner and a wire brush.

Step 6: Retract the rear caliper piston (turn + push)

• Use a rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty) (a tool that presses and rotates the piston at the same time).
• Turn the piston while applying inward pressure until it bottoms out and the piston face sits flush enough for the new, thicker pads.
• Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir while retracting; if it gets too full, stop and remove a little fluid safely.

Step 7: Lubricate contact points (not the pad friction surface)

• Apply a thin layer of silicone brake lubricant to the caliper bracket pad lands (where the clips contact) and to the pad ears where they slide.
• Apply a light coat of silicone brake lubricant to the slide pin’s smooth area if it’s dry, then reinstall the pin boot correctly.
• Do not get lubricant on the rotor or pad friction material. Clean mistakes with brake cleaner.

Step 8: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new abutment clips into the bracket by hand (press until fully seated).
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the same positions as the originals.
• Confirm the pads slide freely in the bracket (no sticking).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Swing the caliper back down over the new pads.
• Install the lower slide pin bolt using a 12mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–9 on the other rear wheel.
• Try to keep parts “left with left, right with right” as you work.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle to the ground using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, slowly press the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test at low speed first: confirm normal stopping and no pulling/noises.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, allowing a little cool-down between stops.
• Re-check for leaks, abnormal smells, or a soft pedal.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $200-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.