🔧 Escape - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing your Escape’s rear brake pads restores safe stopping and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. You’ll remove the rear caliper, swap pads, compress the caliper piston, and reassemble with proper lubrication and torque.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Escape on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks; the rear will be off the ground.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed; it can push the piston out.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—wear nitrile gloves and a dust mask, and use brake cleaner (no compressed air).
• 🛑 Let brakes cool; hot rotors/calipers can burn you.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• 7mm hex bit socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 6" extension 3/8"
• 15mm socket
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground and leave the transmission in 1st gear.
• 🧰 Release the parking brake fully (rear calipers/pads won’t come off correctly if it’s applied).
• 🧰 Slightly loosen the rear wheel lug nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" before lifting.
• 🧰 Turn the steering wheel straight and keep the key removed so no one starts it.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Chock the front tires using wheel chocks.
• Lift one rear corner using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the Escape onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper lift points.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheel

• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar 1/2".
• Remove the wheel and set it under the rocker panel as a backup safety measure.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not hang it by the hose)

• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Remove the slide pin bolts using a 7mm hex bit socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" extension 3/8".
• Lift the caliper off the pads. If it’s stuck, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook (specialty).

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove any stainless pad clips from the bracket (if included) and clean the bracket pad “rails” with a wire brush.
• Spray and wipe the area using brake cleaner. Keep cleaner off painted surfaces.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Open the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood to allow fluid to move back (watch for overflow).
• Place an old pad against the piston face, then slowly compress the piston using a C-clamp (6" minimum).
• Stop if it suddenly gets very hard to turn; re-check that the parking brake is fully released.

Step 6: Lube slide pins and install new hardware

• Pull the slide pins out one at a time, wipe them clean, and apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based).
• Reinstall slide pins and confirm the rubber boots are seated.
• Install new pad clips (from the hardware kit) onto the bracket, if provided.

Step 7: Install new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure pads slide freely in the clips; if tight, re-clean the bracket rails using a wire brush.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners

• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 7mm hex bit socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" extension 3/8".
• Torque to 33 Nm (24 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2" (use an adapter if needed).

Step 9: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the Escape until the tire just touches the ground.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" and 19mm socket.

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 1–9 on the other rear wheel.
• Replace rear pads as a set (both sides).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal 8–12 times before driving until it feels firm.
• ✅ Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• ✅ Test brakes at low speed first; confirm no pulling or grinding.
• ✅ Perform a gentle bed-in: 6–10 moderate stops from 30–5 mph, with cool-down between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Quick check: Look through the wheel—do you see a brake caliper squeezing a rotor (disc)? If instead you see a closed “drum” housing, you have rear brake shoes (not pads). Tell me which one you have and I’ll send the exact matching guide.