🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores braking performance and prevents rotor damage when pads wear thin. On your F-150, the rear caliper piston presses straight in (not a twist-in type), so this is a very doable driveway job with basic tools.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Make sure the parking brake is fully released before starting (rear brakes won’t come apart correctly if it’s on).
• ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (the piston can pop out).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• C-clamp (6-inch minimum)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake fully.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top). This helps fluid return when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear differential.
• Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently lower onto them.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and remove the slide pin bolts

• Turn the steering is not needed for rear, but rotate the rotor by hand to see the back side of the caliper.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Tip: If it’s tight, use the breaker bar carefully.

Step 3: Remove and support the caliper

• Gently pry the caliper outward with a flathead screwdriver if it’s snug.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension with a bungee cord.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove the old pad clips (hardware) from the caliper bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the pad “tracks” on the bracket with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6-inch minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir as you compress—if it looks like it may overflow, remove a little fluid before continuing.
• Tip: Slow pressure prevents seal damage.

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Snap the new pad clips into the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver carefully if needed).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pads slide on the clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).
• Install the new pads into the bracket in the same positions as removed.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Set the caliper back over the new pads.
• Reinstall the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 8: If you removed the caliper bracket (only if necessary)

• If the rotor needed removal and you took the bracket off, reinstall the bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 201 Nm (148 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the truck off the stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off if needed.
• Do a low-speed test in a safe area: confirm normal stopping and no pulling/no grinding.
• Pad bed-in (recommended): make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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