🔧 4Runner - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

On your 4Runner, the rear brake pads clamp the rear rotors to slow the vehicle. Replacing worn pads restores braking power and prevents rotor damage (metal-on-metal grinding).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the truck with jack stands before going under.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• ⚠️ Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake pedal untouched while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock both front wheels.
• 🛞 Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting (do not remove them yet).
• 🧴 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; make sure it isn’t overfilled (fluid level can rise when you push the pistons back).
• 🧯 Plan to release the parking brake after the rear is safely on jack stands so the rear pads/rotors aren’t dragging.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the rear differential housing.
• Place jack stands under the rear frame support points and lower the vehicle onto the stands.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and hardware

• Identify the rear brake caliper (the “clamp” over the rotor).
• Find the two caliper slide pin bolts (these are the smaller bolts that let the caliper “float”; a slide pin is the smooth pin the caliper moves on).

Step 3: Remove the caliper (keep it supported)

• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the pads/rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it does not hang by the brake hose. Never stretch the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Remove the inner and outer pads by hand; if they’re stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver and/or needle-nose pliers.
• Spray the bracket area with brake cleaner spray and scrub rust with a wire brush.

Step 5: Check and service the slide pins

• Pull each slide pin out by hand.
• Wipe old grease off, then apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease and reinstall the pins (they should move smoothly).

Step 6: Retract the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper. Go slow to avoid overflow.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress; remove a little fluid if it gets too high.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad hardware clips onto the bracket (from your rear brake pad hardware kit).
• Apply a very thin film of silicone brake grease where the pad “ears” touch the hardware clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the two slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• 🧴 Re-check brake fluid level in the reservoir and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• 🛣️ Do a careful test drive: start at low speed and confirm normal braking with no pulling or grinding.
• 🔥 Pad bed-in (recommended): make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $90-$390 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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