🔧 4Runner - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear calipers, swap the worn pads for new ones, then reassemble and verify safe braking. Doing this on time prevents rotor damage and keeps stopping distances consistent.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the rear with jack stands before going under the 4Runner.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear rotors include a drum-style parking brake inside).
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep grease off pad friction surfaces and rotor faces.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Needle-nose pliers
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in Park, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake fully (foot pedal parking brake).
• Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack and support the frame with jack stands.
• Torque wrench = tool that tightens accurately.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet 3/8" or breaker bar 1/2".
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and check brake fluid level

• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir.
• If it’s near the “MAX” line, remove a little fluid with shop towels (so it won’t overflow when compressing pistons).
• Brake fluid damages paint—wipe spills fast.

Step 3: Remove the caliper slide pin bolts

• On one side, remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord (a stretchy hook strap) so the brake hose is not pulling.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove any pad clips/hardware from the bracket using needle-nose pliers.
• Clean the bracket pad “shelves” (where clips sit) using brake cleaner spray, shop towels, and a wire brush.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir for rising level.
• C-clamp = screw tool that squeezes parts together.

Step 6: Install new pad hardware and apply correct grease

• Install new pad clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears slide on the clips.
• Do not grease the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 7: Install the new rear pads

• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads slide freely (no binding). If tight, re-clean the bracket contact areas using wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and tighten bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range).

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–8 on the opposite rear wheel using the same tools.
• Replace rear pads as a set (both sides) to prevent pulling and uneven braking.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the 4Runner off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal slowly 8–12 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Verify brake fluid level is between MIN and MAX.
• Test drive at low speed first and confirm normal stopping and no pulling/noise.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph to ~5 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.
• Re-check for leaks, loose hardware, and abnormal heat/smell after the first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $240-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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