🔧 Savana - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. On your Savana, this is a conventional rear disc brake setup: you’ll remove the caliper, swap pads/hardware, compress the piston, then reassemble and bed-in the pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

Assumption: Rear disc brakes with standard (non-electric) parking brake.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• 🛑 Support the van with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the hose; support it with a hook/strap.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage finishes.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket (typically 22mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
• Socket set (metric)
• Caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (high-temp silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front wheels.
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and remove the brake master cylinder cap (leave it sitting on top) so fluid can rise when you compress pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at a solid rear jacking point.
• Set the van down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a lug nut socket (typically 22mm) and ratchet.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and check pad/rotor condition

• Turn the steering wheel is not applicable; you’ll access the rear caliper straight-on.
• Visually check the rotor for deep grooves or heavy rust ridges. If badly damaged, replace rotors too.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (not the bracket)

• Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a ratchet and socket set (metric).
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord or mechanics wire (do not stress the hose).
• Torque on install (typical GM rear caliper guide bolts): Torque to 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware/abutment clips from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Service the caliper slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out one at a time from the bracket (they’re the smooth pins the caliper “slides” on).
• Wipe them clean and apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (high-temp silicone).
• Reinsert pins fully and make sure they move smoothly.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid level at the master cylinder; remove excess if it nears the top.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 7: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install new abutment clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
• Install the new pads into the bracket (match inner vs outer if one has a wear indicator).
• Make sure pads slide freely in the clips (no sticking). If tight, re-clean with wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide-pin bolts using a ratchet and socket set (metric).
• Torque to 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the van to the ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque (common Savana 2500 8-lug spec): Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–9 on the other side. Always replace pads on both sides.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal remains firm.
• Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $240-$420 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.