🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing your Altima’s rear brake pads means removing the rear wheels, moving the caliper out of the way, swapping the pads, and compressing the caliper piston so everything fits back together. The key is doing it safely and torquing the bolts and lug nuts correctly so the brakes work smoothly and quietly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Release the parking brake before servicing rear brakes (rear calipers won’t move freely if it’s applied).
• Brake dust is hazardous—use brake cleaner, not compressed air, to clean parts.
• Do one side at a time so you can copy the other side if you get confused.
• Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" breaker bar
• 3/8" ratchet
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• Large C-clamp
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Drum brake spring tool (specialty)
• Brake spoon/adjuster tool (specialty)
• Needle-nose pliers

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the transmission to P, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is released before lifting the rear.
• Loosen rear lug nuts about 1/4 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before the wheels are off the ground.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level. When you compress the pistons, the level can rise—remove a little fluid only if it’s near the MAX line. Don’t spill brake fluid on paint.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Lift the rear with a floor jack at the rear jacking point and set the car onto jack stands at the rear pinch welds.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 2: Confirm your rear brake type (quick check)

• If you see a shiny flat disc (rotor) with a caliper over it, follow the Rear Disc Pads steps below.
• If you see a closed “drum” housing (no caliper), you have Rear Drum Shoes (not pads). Follow the Rear Drum Shoes steps below.

Step 3A: Rear Disc Pads - Remove the caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself for access.
• Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper and remove them with a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor and support it with a bungee cord. Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 4A: Rear Disc Pads - Remove old pads and hardware

• Remove the inner and outer pads by hand. Use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “lands” (where the clips sit) with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.

Step 5A: Rear Disc Pads - Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face, then compress the piston slowly with a large C-clamp.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir level while you compress.

Step 6A: Rear Disc Pads - Install new hardware and pads

• Install new pad clips (from the hardware kit) onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad ears (the metal ends that slide in the clips). Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 7A: Rear Disc Pads - Reinstall caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install and tighten the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).
• If you removed the caliper bracket (only if necessary), install bracket bolts with a 19mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 3B: Rear Drum Shoes (if equipped) - Remove the drum

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pull the drum off by hand. If it’s stuck, tap around the drum face lightly with the palm of your hand and work it off evenly.
• If it still won’t come off, back off the adjuster through the access slot using a brake spoon/adjuster tool (specialty).

Step 4B: Rear Drum Shoes (if equipped) - Replace shoes

• Take a clear photo of the spring layout before disassembly.
• Remove return springs using a drum brake spring tool (specialty) and needle-nose pliers.
• Replace the shoes and any worn hardware, then reinstall springs in the same positions.
• Adjust the star wheel with a brake spoon/adjuster tool (specialty) so the drum slides on with slight drag.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test at low speed first. Verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bed-in (break-in): make 6–10 gentle stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, allowing a little cool-down between stops. Avoid hard stops for 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$405 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.