🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This job replaces the worn rear brake pads on your Altima’s rear disc brakes. You’ll remove the rear caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads), swap pads, compress the caliper piston, then reassemble and torque everything correctly.

Assumption: Your Altima has rear disc brakes (not rear drums).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the front wheels.
• 🛑 Never rely on a floor jack alone; support with jack stands.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Brakes can be hot; let components cool before touching.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it damages paint quickly.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• ✅ Park on level ground, put the shifter in Park, and release the parking brake.
• ✅ Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• ✅ Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; fluid may rise when you compress pistons.
• ✅ Loosen (crack loose) rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jack point, then place jack stands under solid support points.
• Give the car a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before removing wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels so you can compare left/right parts as you go. Work one side at a time.

Step 3: Locate the rear caliper and pads

• The caliper is the metal clamp over the rotor; the pads sit between the caliper bracket and the rotor.
• Turn the steering wheel is not needed (rear), but position yourself for a clear view of the caliper bolts.

Step 4: Remove the caliper slide pin bolts

• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (upper and lower).
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a brake caliper hanger hook so it doesn’t dangle by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware (if equipped) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad-contact areas using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 6: Service the slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand (they’re the smooth pins the caliper moves on).
• Wipe them clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
• Reinsert the pins and confirm they move smoothly. Sticky pins cause uneven pad wear.

Step 7: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new clips from the rear brake hardware kit into the bracket (match orientation to what you removed).
• Install the new pads into the bracket; they should slide freely.

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the caliper piston back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.
• A C-clamp is a screw clamp used to press the piston in evenly.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 4–9 on the other rear wheel.
• Try to keep left/right steps identical so braking stays even.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🔁 Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• 🔍 Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• 🚗 Test at low speed first; confirm normal stopping and no pulling/noises.
• 🧪 Pad break-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, with 30–60 seconds between stops to cool. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 150–200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$390 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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