🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

On your Altima, the rear brakes use a caliper that squeezes pads against the rotor (disc). Replacing the pads restores braking power and helps prevent rotor damage when pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Wire brush
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner
• High-temp silicone brake grease
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, leave the transmission in gear, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap sitting loosely on top. Fluid level may rise when pistons retract.
• Set your lug nuts loose 1/2 turn before lifting the car using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear at the proper jack point using a floor jack.
• Place jack stands under the rear support points and lower the car onto them.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and hardware

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed (rear axle), but make sure you have good access.
• Look at the caliper: it sits over the rotor, with two slide-pin bolts on the back.
• A “slide pin” is the smooth guide that lets the caliper move side-to-side evenly.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (leave the bracket on for now)

• Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper from the suspension spring using a bungee cord. Never let it hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove any pad clips/shims using needle-nose pliers.
• Clean the bracket pad “lands” (the metal shelves where pads slide) using a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 5: Retract the rear caliper piston (this one screws in)

• Install the brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty) onto the piston face.
• Turn the piston while pushing it inward until it bottoms out smoothly.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir; if it gets too full, remove a little fluid safely (do not spill on paint).
• Rear pistons typically retract by rotate + push.

Step 6: Service the slide pins

• Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
• Clean them with brake cleaner and wipe dry.
• Apply a thin coat of high-temp silicone brake grease and reinstall the pins.
• Make sure the rubber boots seat all the way around the pin.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips/shims onto the bracket (from your hardware kit).
• Apply a very light film of high-temp silicone brake grease where the pad ears touch the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 3–8 on the opposite rear side.
• Always replace pads in pairs (both rear wheels).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• With the engine on, test braking at low speed in a safe area.
• Do a gentle pad bed-in: 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, with cool-down time between stops.
• Listen for scraping or grinding; recheck your work if anything sounds wrong.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $280-$520 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$460 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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