🔧 Camry - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

On your Camry, the rear brakes may be disc (pads) or drum (shoes). Since you asked for pads, I’ll show you how to quickly identify what you have, then follow the correct steps so you don’t buy the wrong parts.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands under proper lift points before going under or pulling wheels.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake OFF while servicing rear brakes.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Do one side at a time so you can copy the other side if needed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Micrometer or brake pad gauge

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/anti-rattle) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake anti-squeal compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 21mm socket and breaker bar).
• Lift the rear and support with jack stands before removing wheels.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify rear brake type (disc vs drum)

• Remove one rear wheel using a 21mm socket.
• If you see a caliper squeezing a rotor (flat disc), you have rear disc pads—continue to Step 2.
• If you see a closed “bowl” (drum) with no caliper, you have rear drum shoes—stop here and tell me, and I’ll give you the drum-shoe procedure (it’s different parts and steps).

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (disc brakes)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed—rear is straight. Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Remove the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord (do not let it dangle by the brake hose).
• Tip: Hang it from the spring or body hole.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Spray the bracket pad “rails” with brake cleaner and scrub with a wire brush.

Step 4: Check rotor and pad wear

• Inspect the rotor surface for deep grooves or heavy rust lips.
• Measure rotor thickness with a micrometer or brake pad gauge if you have one.
• If the rotor is badly grooved or shakes when braking, plan to replace/resize the rotor (tell me what you see and I’ll guide you).

Step 5: Service slide pins (prevents uneven wear)

• Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand (they are the smooth pins the 14mm bolts screw into).
• Wipe old grease off and apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease.
• Reinsert the pins and confirm they glide smoothly.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and keep it straight so it doesn’t bind.
• Tip: Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips into the bracket (press in by hand; use a flathead screwdriver to seat them if needed).
• Apply a very thin film of silicone brake grease where the pad “ears” touch the clips (do not get grease on the pad friction material).
• If your new pads do not include shims and your old pads have Toyota-style shims, transfer them and apply brake anti-squeal compound between pad and shim.
• Slide the new pads into place.

Step 8: Reinstall caliper and torque fasteners

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• If you removed the caliper bracket (only if needed), reinstall bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car enough that the tire touches the ground and torque the lugs in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 2–9 on the other rear wheel.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal still feels normal.
• Test drive at low speed and verify no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 medium stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops.
• Recheck for leaks and confirm lug nuts are still tight after 25–50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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