🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers up, replace the pads (and hardware), then retract the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. On your Accord, the rear caliper piston typically must be turned while being pushed in because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let brakes cool; hot rotors/calipers can burn you.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage finishes.
• ⚠️ Parking brake: keep it released while servicing the rear brakes.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive)
• 19mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Small turkey baster

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released (important for rear calipers).
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. If it’s near the MAX line, use a small turkey baster to remove a little fluid (pistons going back in can raise the level).
• Tip: Do one side at a time to avoid mixing parts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar (1/2") to loosen the rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the car is on the ground.

Step 2: Jack up and support the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the rear of the car at a proper rear jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under solid lift/support points, then lower the car onto the stands.
• Keep wheel chocks at the front wheels.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive) to remove the lug nuts, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 4: Locate the rear caliper and remove the caliper bolts

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed here—just look behind the rotor to find the caliper.
• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive) to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper up and off the pads.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it hangs from the suspension, not the hose.
• Torque spec (install later): Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Spray the bracket/pad areas with brake cleaner and scrub contact points with a wire brush.
• Tip: Clean metal-to-metal slide areas for quiet brakes.

Step 6: Retract (rewind) the rear caliper piston

• This rear piston usually must be turned and pushed in at the same time. A brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty) is a tool that rotates the piston while applying inward pressure.
• Position the rewind tool against the piston face and turn it so the piston slowly screws back into the caliper.
• Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir while you do this. If it rises too high, remove a little with the small turkey baster.
• Rewind until the piston boot sits flat and there’s enough room for the thicker new pads.

Step 7: Install new pad hardware and grease the contact points

• Install the new stainless hardware clips into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) to the pad ears where they touch the hardware clips.
• Do not get grease on pad friction material or the rotor.

Step 8: Install the new rear pads

• Slide the new inner and outer pads into place in the bracket.
• If your pad set includes a wear indicator/squealer, install it in the same position as the old one was.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
• If it won’t fit, the piston isn’t fully rewound—use the brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty) again.
• Reinstall the slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive).
• Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2" drive) (use an appropriate adapter if needed).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 9 on the other rear brake.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Put the wheels back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench (1/2" drive).
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the car on the ground, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only with the correct fluid if needed: DOT 3 brake fluid.
• Test at low speed first. Confirm normal braking and no grinding.
• Bed-in (break-in) procedure: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, with cooling time between. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles if possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$390 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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