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2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK
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How to Replace Rear Brakes 2021-2023 Jeep Grand Cherokee L

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2021-2023 Jeep Grand Cherokee L

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK

Step-by-step DIY rear brake service with tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for your Grand Cherokee WK

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK

Step-by-step DIY rear brake service with tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for your Grand Cherokee WK

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Orion

đź”§ Grand Cherokee - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, taking off the brake calipers and brackets, then swapping the pads and rotors on your Grand Cherokee. This will restore braking power and help stop noise, vibration, and uneven wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate (OK for careful beginners) | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • 🛑 Work on level, solid ground and set the front wheels with wheel chocks so the SUV cannot roll.
  • 🛑 Brakes may be hot if you just drove; let them cool before starting.
  • 🛑 Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves to protect your eyes and hands from dust and sharp edges.
  • 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed, or the piston can pop out.
  • 🛑 Keep all brake surfaces clean and dry; no oil or grease on rotor faces or pad friction material.
  • 🛑 This Grand Cherokee uses a cable-operated parking brake inside the rear rotor “hat”; do not damage the internal brake shoes.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • đź§° Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • đź§° Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
  • đź§° Wheel chocks
  • đź§° 21mm socket
  • đź§° Breaker bar 1/2"
  • đź§° Torque wrench 10–150 ft-lbs (torque wrench = tool that tightens bolts to a specific force)
  • đź§° 13mm socket
  • đź§° 18mm socket
  • đź§° Ratchet 3/8"
  • đź§° Ratchet 1/2"
  • đź§° Torx T30 screwdriver
  • đź§° C-clamp (6" or larger) or brake caliper piston tool (tool to push caliper piston back in)
  • đź§° Flathead screwdriver (medium size)
  • đź§° Small pry bar
  • đź§° Wire brush (small, steel bristles)
  • đź§° Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire (to hang caliper)
  • đź§° Shop rags
  • đź§° Brake cleaner spray (chemical that cleans brake parts and evaporates fast)
  • đź§° Disposable gloves (nitrile)
  • đź§° Safety glasses
  • đź§° Wire or small brush for slide pin bores

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 🔩 Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set (does both rear wheels)
  • 🔩 Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
  • 🔩 Brake pad hardware kit (rear) - Qty: 1 (new stainless clips)
  • 🔩 High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 small tube
  • 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube
  • 🔩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1–2 cans
  • 🔩 New rotor retaining screws (rear, Torx) - Qty: 2 (optional but recommended)

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • đź§­ Park the Grand Cherokee on a flat surface, shift to PARK, and apply the parking brake firmly; then you will release it just before rotor removal.
  • đź§­ Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with the 21mm socket and breaker bar while the vehicle is still on the ground.
  • đź§­ Place wheel chocks in front of and behind at least one front wheel.
  • đź§­ You do not need to disconnect the battery for this job.
  • đź§­ Lay out your new pads and rotors so you can compare them to the old parts as you work.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear of the vehicle

  • Use the floor jack under the rear jacking point or the rear axle area recommended in your owner’s manual.
  • Raise the rear until both rear wheels are off the ground.
  • Place jack stands under the solid frame or axle points, then slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands.
  • Give the SUV a gentle push to confirm it is stable on the stands.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

  • Use the 21mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar to remove the lug nuts completely.
  • Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.
  • Keep lug nuts together so none get lost.

Step 3: Locate the rear brake components

  • You will see the caliper (clamps pad to rotor), the caliper bracket (holds caliper and pads), and the rotor (large metal disc).
  • Note how the brake hose routes to the caliper; you do not want to twist or stretch it.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper (passenger side first)

  • On the back of the caliper, locate the two small caliper slide bolts (usually 13mm heads).
  • Use the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove both slide bolts.
  • Gently pry the caliper away from the pads with the flathead screwdriver if needed.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire from the suspension spring so the hose is not stressed.
  • Never let the caliper hang by the rubber hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Remove the thin metal pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using the flathead screwdriver if they are stuck.
  • Set one old pad aside; you will use it for compressing the piston.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place the old pad against the caliper piston face.
  • Use the C-clamp over the caliper body and old pad.
  • Slowly tighten the C-clamp to push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Go slowly and stop if you feel sudden hard resistance.
  • Remove the C-clamp and old pad once the piston is fully seated.

Step 7: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Locate the two large caliper bracket bolts on the back of the knuckle (usually 18mm heads).
  • Use the 18mm socket and 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar to loosen and remove both bolts.
  • Remove the bracket from the rotor and set it on a clean surface.

Step 8: Remove the old rotor

  • Check for a small rotor retaining screw on the rotor face near the studs (Torx head).
  • If present, use the Torx T30 screwdriver to remove the screw.
  • Release the parking brake now so the internal drum shoes are not clamped on the rotor.
  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it is stuck from rust, tap around the hat of the rotor with a rubber mallet (or gently with your palm) until it frees up.
  • If very stuck, spray some brake cleaner around hub area.

Step 9: Clean the hub and caliper bracket

  • Use the wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the hub face where the rotor sits.
  • Wipe the hub with a shop rag and a little brake cleaner.
  • Lightly coat the hub face with a thin smear of anti-seize compound to prevent the new rotor from sticking in the future (very thin layer only).
  • On the caliper bracket, use the wire brush to clean the pad contact areas and where the hardware clips sit.

Step 10: Service the caliper slide pins

  • On the caliper bracket, pull the two slide pins out by hand; note their position so they go back in the same holes.
  • Clean the pins with a shop rag and a little brake cleaner.
  • Use a small wire brush or rolled rag to clean inside the pin bores.
  • Apply a thin, even coat of high-temperature brake grease to each pin and reinsert them; they should move smoothly.

Step 11: Install the new rotor

  • Spray the new rotor (both sides) with brake cleaner to remove any protective oil, then wipe dry with shop rags.
  • Slide the new rotor onto the hub, making sure it sits flat against the hub face.
  • If your rotor uses a retaining screw, install it and snug it with the Torx T30 screwdriver (just hand tight; it only holds the rotor in place).
  • Lightly set a lug nut by hand on one stud to help hold the rotor tight while you work, if needed.

Step 12: Install new hardware and pads on the bracket

  • Clip the new pad hardware (stainless clips) into the caliper bracket using your fingers or the flathead screwdriver if needed.
  • Make sure each clip is fully seated and not bent.
  • Apply a very thin layer of brake grease on the areas of the clips where the pad “ears” will slide (do not get any on the rotor or pad faces).
  • Install the new brake pads into the bracket, matching the shape/orientation of the old pads. The pad with any wear sensor or different backing plate usually goes on the inside.

Step 13: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Place the caliper bracket with new pads over the rotor, lining it up with the mounting holes.
  • Install the two large bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 18mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to snug the bolts.
  • Then use the torque wrench with the 18mm socket to tighten each bracket bolt to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall the caliper over the new pads

  • Remove the caliper from the bungee cord and position it over the new pads and rotor, making sure the piston side is on the inside.
  • Align the caliper slide pin holes with the threaded holes in the bracket.
  • Install the two caliper slide bolts by hand.
  • Use the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to snug them.
  • Use the torque wrench and 13mm socket to tighten each slide bolt to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat for the other rear side

  • Repeat Steps 4–14 on the other rear wheel.
  • Always replace pads and rotors on both sides together.

Step 16: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Place each rear wheel back on the hub and start all lug nuts by hand.
  • Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern while the vehicle is still on stands (do not fully torque yet).
  • Use the floor jack to raise the rear slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
  • Use the torque wrench and 21mm socket to tighten each lug nut to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

Step 17: Pump the brake pedal and set parking brake

  • Sit in the driver’s seat and slowly press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
  • Apply and release the parking brake a few times to make sure it still feels normal.

âś… After Repair

  • đźš— Start the engine and gently press the brake pedal again; it should be firm and high, not spongy.
  • đźš— Check around each rear wheel for any loose parts or rubbing sounds as you slowly roll the SUV.
  • đźš— Perform a short test drive: start with low-speed stops (20–30 km/h) in a safe area, gradually increasing speed.
  • đźš— Bedding-in (break-in) the new pads and rotors: make 8–10 medium stops from about 50–60 km/h down to 10–15 km/h, allowing the brakes to cool slightly between each stop. Avoid hard, emergency-style braking for the first 300–500 km if possible.
  • đźš— After the test drive, recheck the rear lug nuts with the torque wrench to confirm they are still at 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450–$700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180–$320 (parts only)

You Save: $270–$380 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop about 1.5–2 hours.


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