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2020 Chevrolet Equinox
2020 Chevrolet Equinox
L - Inline 4 1.5L
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How To: Chevrolet Equinox Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

How To: Chevrolet Equinox Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
22mm
22mm
Socket
or (7/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2020 Chevy Equinox

Step-by-step DIY rear brake service with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2020 Chevy Equinox

Step-by-step DIY rear brake service with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

Orion
Orion

🔧 Equinox - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll be replacing the rear brake pads and brake rotors on your Equinox to restore braking power and prevent noise or vibration. This involves lifting the rear of the vehicle, removing the wheels, taking off the calipers and brackets, then installing new pads and rotors.

Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Work on cool brakes; hot brake parts can cause burns.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and a dust mask to avoid breathing brake dust.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands and tools clear of moving suspension parts while the vehicle is lifted.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; it can push the piston out.
  • ⚠️ Brake cleaner is flammable; use it in a well-ventilated area and away from flames.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this job on your Equinox.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, set of 2)
  • 🛠️ Wheel chocks
  • 🛠️ Lug wrench or 22mm socket
  • 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 🛠️ 1/2" drive ratchet
  • 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (5–75 ft-lbs range)
  • 🛠️ 1/2" drive torque wrench (50–150 ft-lbs range)
  • 🛠️ 13mm socket
  • 🛠️ 18mm socket
  • 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium size)
  • 🛠️ Brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
  • 🛠️ Wire brush (metal bristles)
  • 🛠️ C-clamp (6" or larger)
  • 🛠️ Bungee cord or mechanics wire
  • 🛠️ Rubber mallet
  • 🛠️ Penetrating oil spray
  • 🛠️ Brake cleaner spray
  • 🛠️ Shop towels or rags
  • 🛠️ Nitrile gloves
  • 🛠️ Small wire or pick tool

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 🧩 Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 (serves both rear wheels, replace in pairs)
  • 🧩 Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (replace both sides)
  • 🧩 Rear brake pad hardware kit (abuttment clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • 🧩 High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 small tube
  • 🧩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube
  • 🧩 Brake cleaner - Qty: 1–2 cans
  • 🧩 Replacement caliper bracket bolts - Qty: 4 (recommended, single-use torque-to-yield on many GM models)
  • 🧩 Replacement caliper guide pin boots (optional) - Qty: 4

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Equinox on a flat, solid surface and set the parking brake firmly.
  • Place wheel chocks in front of both front wheels.
  • Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with a lug wrench or 22mm socket while the vehicle is on the ground.
  • Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to stop mid-job.
  • Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, then set it loosely back on. This lets fluid move when you push pistons back.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Rear of the Vehicle

  • Position the floor jack (3-ton) under the rear center jacking point or one side jacking point specified in the owner’s manual.
  • Raise the rear of the Equinox until both rear wheels are off the ground.
  • Place jack stands under the approved rear support points and slowly lower the vehicle onto them using the floor jack.
  • Rock the vehicle gently to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove Rear Wheels

  • Use the lug wrench or 22mm socket with 1/2" ratchet to fully remove the lug nuts from one rear wheel.
  • Remove the wheel and set it aside.
  • Repeat on the other rear wheel.

Step 3: Inspect Caliper and Locate Bolts

  • Look at the rear brake caliper; you’ll see two smaller slider bolts on the back, typically with 13mm heads.
  • The larger bracket bolts (holding the caliper bracket to the knuckle) are behind the rotor with 18mm heads.
  • Note the pad orientation before removal.

Step 4: Remove Caliper Slider Bolts

  • Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove the two caliper slider bolts.
  • Carefully slide the caliper off the pads and rotor.
  • Support the caliper using a bungee cord or mechanics wire from the suspension spring so it does not hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove Old Brake Pads and Hardware

  • Slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use a flathead screwdriver if needed to gently pry them out.
  • Remove the old metal hardware clips from the caliper bracket using the flathead screwdriver.

Step 6: Remove Caliper Bracket

  • Use an 18mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to remove the two caliper bracket bolts on the back side of the knuckle.
  • Take off the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
  • These bolts typically torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 7: Remove Old Rotor

  • If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub and center area with penetrating oil.
  • Tap around the rotor hat (the raised center part) with a rubber mallet to break it free.
  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub.

Step 8: Clean Hub Surface

  • Use a wire brush to clean rust and debris from the hub face where the rotor sits.
  • Wipe the area with brake cleaner and a shop towel.
  • Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face to reduce future rust (avoid wheel studs).

Step 9: Prepare and Install New Rotor

  • Spray the new rotor with brake cleaner on both sides to remove protective oil, then wipe it clean.
  • Place the new rotor onto the hub, lining up the bolt holes.
  • Temporarily install one lug nut by hand using the lug wrench or 22mm socket to hold the rotor snug against the hub.

Step 10: Service Caliper Bracket and Hardware

  • Clean the caliper bracket thoroughly with brake cleaner and a wire brush, especially where the pads contact the bracket.
  • Install the new hardware clips from your hardware kit by pressing them into place by hand on the bracket.
  • Remove the caliper guide pins one at a time using your fingers or a small wire/pick tool if needed.
  • Clean the guide pins with a shop towel, then apply a thin even coat of high-temperature brake grease to each pin and reinstall into the rubber boots.
  • Guide pins should slide smoothly, not stick.

Step 11: Reinstall Caliper Bracket

  • Position the caliper bracket over the rotor and align it with the mounting holes.
  • Install the caliper bracket bolts (new recommended) by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use an 18mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to tighten them snug.
  • Then use the 1/2" torque wrench and 18mm socket to torque the bolts to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Install New Brake Pads

  • Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the pad ears (the metal tabs that contact the hardware) and the back of the pads where they contact the caliper piston and outer caliper.
  • Slide the new inner and outer brake pads into the hardware clips on the bracket by hand.
  • Make sure the pad with the wear indicator (if present) goes on the correct side as the original inner pad.

Step 13: Compress Caliper Piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
  • Use a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood; if the fluid rises too high, use a shop towel to soak some out.
  • Go slowly to avoid damaging the piston seal.

Step 14: Reinstall Caliper Over New Pads

  • Position the caliper over the new pads and onto the bracket.
  • Align the slider bolt holes and start both slider bolts by hand.
  • Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to snug the slider bolts.
  • Then torque the slider bolts with a 3/8" torque wrench and 13mm socket to 32 Nm (23 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

  • Repeat Steps 3 through 14 for the other rear wheel.
  • Always replace pads and rotors in pairs on an axle.

Step 16: Reinstall Wheels

  • Remove the temporary lug nut holding the rotor using the lug wrench or 22mm socket.
  • Mount the wheel onto the hub and install the lug nuts by hand.
  • Snug the lug nuts with the 22mm socket and 1/2" ratchet in a star pattern.
  • Repeat for both rear wheels.

Step 17: Lower Vehicle and Torque Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack to lift the rear of the vehicle slightly and remove the jack stands.
  • Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
  • Use a 1/2" torque wrench and 22mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Final Checks Under the Hood

  • Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Top off with the correct brake fluid type if needed.
  • Reinstall the brake fluid reservoir cap securely.

✅ After Repair

  • Before driving, sit in the driver’s seat and slowly pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
  • With the engine running, press and hold the brake pedal firmly to make sure it does not slowly sink.
  • Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area. Start with gentle stops from 10–20 km/h, then from 40–50 km/h.
  • Listen for scraping or grinding noises. If you hear any, stop and recheck pad installation.
  • For the first 300–500 km, avoid very hard braking when possible. This helps “bed in” the pads and rotors for best performance.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450–$650 (parts + labor) for rear pads and rotors

DIY Cost: $180–$320 (parts only)

You Save: $270–$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.0 hours.


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