🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll be replacing the rear brake pads and brake rotors on your Highlander, plus cleaning and greasing the hardware so the brakes work smoothly and quietly. This will fix thin or noisy pads and warped or rusty rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate (good first bigger project) | Estimated Time: 3–4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock (block) the front wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• ⚠️ Your Highlander has an electronic parking brake. Make sure it is fully released before starting, and do not touch the EPB switch while rear brakes are apart.
• ⚠️ Brakes and wheels may be very hot after driving. Let them cool before touching anything.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with air; use brake cleaner spray and a brush.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage it. Wipe any spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves any time you work under or around the vehicle.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, set of 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (5–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive torque wrench (30–150 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ 14mm socket
• 🛠️ 17mm socket
• 🛠️ 10mm socket
• 🛠️ Socket extensions (3" and 6")
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium size)
• 🛠️ Brake caliper hanger hooks (or strong wire)
• 🛠️ C-clamp or disc brake piston compression tool
• 🛠️ Small wire brush
• 🛠️ Shop rags
• 🛠️ Bungee cord or rope
• 🛠️ Rubber mallet
• 🛠️ M8 x 1.25 bolts (2 pieces, for rotor removal, specialty)
• 🛠️ Plastic trim tool or small pry tool
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🧩 Rear brake pad set (left and right) - Qty: 1 set (replace in pairs)
• 🧩 Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• 🧩 Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1 set
• 🧩 High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🧩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 2 cans
• 🧩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🧩 Disposable shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
• 🧩 Penetrating oil (for rusty fasteners) - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the front wheels.
• Turn ignition ON, press the brake pedal, and push the electronic parking brake switch to release the parking brake. Confirm the EPB warning light is off in the cluster.
• Turn ignition OFF and remove the key/fob from the vehicle so nobody can turn it on while you work.
• Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly (do not remove) with the 21mm socket before lifting the vehicle.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure the fluid isn’t already at the very top; if it is, remove a small amount with a clean syringe or turkey baster into a clean container. This prevents overflow when you push pistons in.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear of the vehicle

• Use the floor jack under the rear center jacking point (or one side pinch weld) to lift the rear of the Highlander.
• Place jack stands securely under the rear pinch welds or frame points on both sides. Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands with the floor jack.
• Give the vehicle a firm push at the rear to confirm it is stable on the stands.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts completely.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.
• Keep lug nuts together so none get lost.

Step 3: Inspect and prepare the caliper area

• Spray brake cleaner on the caliper, pads, and rotor to remove loose dust.
• Use the wire brush to lightly clean exposed metal surfaces around the bracket and hub.
• Check the rubber brake hoses and the electric motor wiring on the caliper for any visible damage.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper (pads side)

• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper (top and bottom).
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove both caliper slide pin bolts.
• Gently pry the caliper away from the rotor with a flathead screwdriver if it feels stuck.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension spring using a caliper hanger hook or bungee cord. Do not let it hang by the brake hose or EPB wiring.

Step 5: Remove old brake pads and hardware

• Slide out the old inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
• Remove the metal pad clips (hardware) from the caliper bracket using your flathead screwdriver.
• Use the wire brush to clean the areas on the caliper bracket where the clips sit until shiny metal is visible.
• Clean contact points prevent sticking brakes.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

• Locate the two large caliper bracket bolts on the back of the bracket.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2" ratchet (with extension if needed) to loosen and remove both bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.

Step 7: Remove the old rotor

• Check if the rotor is stuck to the hub by rust. If so, spray penetrating oil around the center hub area.
• Look for two threaded holes in the rotor hat. Thread the M8 x 1.25 bolts into these holes and tighten them evenly with a 10mm socket until the rotor pops loose.
• If needed, tap the rotor face with a rubber mallet to break rust loose, then pull the rotor off the hub.

Step 8: Clean the hub and test-fit the new rotor

• Use the wire brush to clean rust and debris from the hub face where the rotor sits.
• Wipe the hub clean with brake cleaner and a shop rag.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound on the hub face to prevent future rusted-on rotors (avoid wheel studs).
• Place the new rotor on the hub and hold it flush. You can temporarily use one lug nut with the 21mm socket to hold the rotor in place.
• Spray the rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner to remove any oil coating.

Step 9: Prepare and reinstall the caliper bracket

• Install the new pad clips from your hardware kit onto the cleaned caliper bracket. They should snap firmly into place.
• Lightly apply high-temperature brake grease to the areas of the clips where the pad ears will slide. Do not get grease on the rotor or pad friction material.
• Position the caliper bracket back over the rotor.
• Reinstall the two bracket bolts by hand, then tighten with the 17mm socket and 1/2" ratchet.
• Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs) using the 1/2" torque wrench.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Inspect the caliper piston and rubber boot for tears or damage.
• Place an old brake pad against the piston face for protection.
• Use a C-clamp or disc brake piston compression tool to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper until it bottoms out. Go slowly and steadily.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood as you compress; if fluid nears the top, remove some using a clean tool.
• Make sure EPB is off before pushing piston.

Step 11: Install new brake pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the pad ears (the metal ends that contact the clips) and to the back of the pad where it contacts the caliper or shim (avoid friction surface).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket, making sure they sit fully in the clips and move smoothly.

Step 12: Reinstall caliper over new pads

• Swing the caliper back over the new pads and rotor.
• Align the caliper slide pin holes with the bracket holes.
• Install the slide pin bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to tighten the slide pin bolts.
• Torque the caliper slide pin bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using the 3/8" torque wrench.

Step 13: Repeat for the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–12 on the other rear wheel.
• Always replace pads and rotors on both sides.

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install each rear wheel onto the hub and thread lug nuts by hand.
• Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern with the 21mm socket and 1/2" ratchet, but do not fully torque yet.
• Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) using the 1/2" torque wrench and 21mm socket.

Step 15: Final checks under the hood

• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Adjust to the “MAX” line if needed using the correct brake fluid type (DOT 3 or DOT 4 as specified on the cap or in your manual).
• Clean any spilled brake fluid with a rag.

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✅ After Repair

• With the vehicle still parked, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
• Turn ignition ON and confirm there are no brake or EPB warning lights on the dashboard.
• Apply and release the electronic parking brake a couple of times to ensure it works normally.
• Perform a gentle road test:
  • Drive at low speed (20–30 km/h) and gently apply the brakes several times.
  • Listen for abnormal noises (grinding, metal-on-metal, loud squeals).
  • Check that the vehicle does not pull to one side under braking.
• Break-in the new pads and rotors: make 8–10 medium stops from 40–50 km/h to 10–15 km/h with time to cool between each stop. This helps avoid future brake noise.
• After the test drive, re-check lug nut torque with the torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450–$700 (parts + labor) for rear pads and rotors on a modern SUV like your Highlander.

DIY Cost: $200–$350 (parts only), depending on pad/rotor quality.

You Save: $250–$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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