🔧 Gladiator - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the rear brake calipers, swap the pads and rotors, then reassemble with the correct torque. This restores braking performance and prevents noise, vibration, and uneven wear when rotors are worn or grooved.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck on jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake OFF while servicing rear brakes (rotors won’t come off if it’s on).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook.
• ⚠️ Watch brake fluid level when compressing pistons; remove excess if it nears the cap.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 21mm socket (caliper bracket bolts)
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord or brake caliper hook (specialty)
• Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (high-temp silicone) - Qty: 1
• Threadlocker (medium strength) - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
• Break the rear lug nuts loose before lifting (just crack them loose).
• Release the parking brake fully (rear rotors include a small drum parking brake inside).
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; be ready to remove a little if it rises when you compress pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear axle.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the axle tubes and lower onto them.
• Remove rear wheels using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel straight and work on one side at a time.
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord or brake caliper hook (specialty).
• Don’t stretch the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat blade screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Remove pad hardware clips from the bracket using a flat blade screwdriver.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet and try again.
• If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it—confirm the parking brake is fully released and tap again with the rubber mallet.

Step 6: Clean and prep the hub and bracket

• Clean hub face rust with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
• Clean the bracket pad-contact surfaces with a wire brush.
• Spray and wipe parts using brake cleaner spray.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
• Hold it in place temporarily by threading on one lug nut by hand (use your 21mm socket only if needed to snug lightly, then remove later).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Apply threadlocker (medium strength) to the bracket bolt threads.
• Install and tighten bracket bolts using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 169 Nm (125 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install new hardware clips into the bracket by hand; use a flat blade screwdriver to seat them fully.
• Apply a thin film of brake lubricant (high-temp silicone) where the pad “ears” slide on the clips.
• Install the new pads into the bracket.
• Keep grease off pad friction material.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• A brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty) is a tool that slowly pushes the piston back into the caliper so the thicker new pads fit.
• Use the brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty) to press the piston straight in slowly.
• Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir while compressing.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Install slide bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 2–11 on the opposite rear wheel.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal firmly 10–15 times until it feels normal (this seats the pistons).
• Verify brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• With the engine running, confirm you have a solid pedal before moving.
• Test drive at low speed first and listen for grinding or pulling.
• Pad bedding (recommended): do 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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