🔧 Escape - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, taking off the calipers and brackets, swapping the rotors and pads, then reassembling and testing the brakes. On your Escape, the rear brakes also include an electronic parking brake, so they must be put into “service mode” before pushing the pistons back.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves; rust flakes and brake dust can injure eyes and skin.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with the calipers removed; this can push pistons out.
• ⚠️ Your Escape has an electronic parking brake (EPB). You must use a scan tool’s EPB service mode before compressing the rear pistons to avoid motor damage.
• ⚠️ Brake components can be very hot after driving; let them cool completely.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint and skin; it is corrosive.
• ⚠️ Turn ignition off and keep the key away from the vehicle when the EPB is in service mode until reassembly is done.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Breaker bar 1/2"
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 3/8" drive (5–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 1/2" drive (30–150 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ 19mm socket
• 🛠️ 13mm socket
• 🛠️ 15mm socket
• 🛠️ E18 Torx socket
• 🛠️ Ratchet 3/8" drive
• 🛠️ Ratchet 1/2" drive
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver medium
• 🛠️ Small wire brush
• 🛠️ C-clamp 6" or disc brake piston compressor tool
• 🛠️ Bungee cord or wire hanger
• 🛠️ Brake cleaner spray
• 🛠️ Shop rags
• 🛠️ Plastic-safe trim tool
• 🛠️ OBD2 scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty)
• 🛠️ Needle-nose pliers
• 🛠️ Small pick tool
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Rear brake rotor set - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• 🔩 Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 (includes pads for both sides)
• 🔩 Rear brake hardware kit (abuttment clips / pad clips) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Caliper slide pin boots (rear) - Qty: 4 (optional but recommended)
• 🔩 Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• 🔩 High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 tube
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🔩 Brake fluid DOT 4 - Qty: 1 bottle (for top-off)
• 🔩 Replacement caliper bracket bolts (rear) - Qty: 4 (recommended single-use on many Fords)
• 🔩 Replacement set-screws for rotors (if equipped) - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Escape on a flat, solid surface, shift to P, and apply the parking brake. Then turn ignition fully off.
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front wheels.
• Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with the 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting the vehicle.
• Have your OBD2 scan tool with EPB service mode ready. This tool connects under the dashboard and tells the electronic parking brake to open the rear calipers.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Clean the cap area with a rag so dirt doesn’t fall inside.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the rear of the vehicle

• Use the floor jack on the recommended rear jacking point under the vehicle (check your owner’s manual diagram).
• Lift until the rear tires are off the ground, then place jack stands under the proper support points on both sides.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands with the floor jack and make sure it is stable by gently shaking the body.
• Use the 19mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar to remove the rear wheel lug nuts completely and remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Put the electronic parking brake (EPB) into service mode

• Reconnect ignition (do not start engine). Keep the vehicle on stands with wheels off.
• Plug the OBD2 scan tool with EPB service mode into the diagnostic port under the dash, near the steering column.
• On the scan tool, follow the menu similar to: Brake System > Electronic Parking Brake > Maintenance/Service Mode.
• Command the EPB to “Open” or “Maintenance/Service mode”. You should hear the EPB motors at the rear calipers running briefly.
• Turn the ignition off and remove the key/fob from the vehicle area so the EPB doesn’t try to self-adjust while you work.
• Do not touch EPB switch during this job.

Step 3: Inspect caliper and locate hardware

• At each rear wheel, look at the caliper. You will see two 13mm caliper guide pin bolts on the back side, and the larger caliper bracket bolts using an E18 Torx socket further inboard.
• Note the brake hose routing so you can avoid twisting it later.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper

• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove the two caliper guide pin bolts.
• Gently pry the caliper away from the pads using a flathead screwdriver if needed.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor and support it with a bungee cord or wire hanger from the suspension spring. Do not let it hang by the brake hose.
• Hanging caliper by hose can cause damage.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use the flathead screwdriver or small pick tool to pop out the metal pad clips (hardware) from the caliper bracket.
• Inspect the caliper slide pins by pulling them out of the bracket by hand. If they are stuck, use needle-nose pliers to work them free.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket and rotor

• Use the E18 Torx socket and 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar to remove the two large caliper bracket bolts on the back of the knuckle.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
• If your rotor has a small set-screw, remove it with the appropriate bit (often Torx, but if present, match the screw head) using a ratchet.
• Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it is stuck, tap gently between the wheel studs near the hub center with a rubber mallet (not listed as a tool but ideally; if unavailable, use your hands and patience) and wiggle it off by hand.

Step 7: Clean and prepare the hub and bracket

• Use the small wire brush to clean rust and debris from the hub surface where the rotor sits.
• Wipe the area with brake cleaner and a shop rag.
• Apply a very thin layer of anti-seize compound on the hub face to reduce future rotor sticking (keep off wheel studs and rotor friction surfaces).
• Clean the caliper bracket pad contact areas with the wire brush and then spray with brake cleaner.

Step 8: Service slide pins and install new hardware

• Clean each caliper slide pin with a shop rag. If very dirty, spray lightly with brake cleaner and wipe dry.
• Apply a thin, even coat of high-temperature brake grease to the smooth portion of each slide pin.
• Reinstall the pins into the caliper bracket, making sure they move smoothly in and out by hand.
• Install the new pad clips (hardware) from your kit into the caliper bracket by pressing them in by hand until they snap into place.

Step 9: Install the new rotor

• Spray the new rotor (both sides and hat area) with brake cleaner to remove protective oil, then dry with a shop rag.
• Place the new rotor onto the hub, aligning holes over the studs.
• If equipped, reinstall the rotor set-screw using the original or replacement screw and tighten snugly by hand with the matching bit and ratchet (no specific high torque needed; just firm).

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor and align the bolt holes.
• Install new or cleaned caliper bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the E18 Torx socket and 1/2" ratchet to tighten both bolts evenly.
• Then use the 1/2" torque wrench with the E18 Torx socket to tighten each bracket bolt to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Compress the caliper piston

• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir under the hood. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean syringe or rag to prevent overflow when compressing pistons.
• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use the C-clamp 6" or disc brake piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston back into the caliper housing until it is fully seated.
• Go slowly to avoid damaging seals.

Step 12: Install new pads and caliper

• Apply a very thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the areas of the pad backing plates that contact the hardware clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket, making sure they sit fully in the hardware clips.
• Lower the caliper over the new pads and onto the caliper bracket, aligning the slide pin holes.
• Install the two 13mm caliper guide pin bolts by hand first, then tighten with the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Use the 3/8" torque wrench with the 13mm socket to torque each guide pin bolt to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 12 on the opposite rear wheel: remove caliper, pads, bracket, rotor, clean, install new rotor, hardware, pads, and reinstall caliper.
• Work one side at a time for reference.

Step 14: Bring EPB out of service mode and check fluid

• Ensure both calipers and pads are fully installed on both sides and all bolts are torqued.
• Reconnect ignition (do not start engine).
• Plug in the OBD2 scan tool again and navigate to: Brake System > Electronic Parking Brake > Exit Maintenance/Service Mode.
• Command the EPB to “Close” or “End Service mode.” You should hear the motors run briefly.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level. Top off with DOT 4 brake fluid if it is below the “MAX” line.

Step 15: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Mount each rear wheel onto the hub and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Use the 19mm socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use the 1/2" torque wrench with the 19mm socket to torque each lug nut to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a crisscross pattern.

Step 16: Seat the brake pads

• Sit in the driver’s seat with the engine off.
• Press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this moves the pads out to meet the rotors).
• Apply and release the parking brake switch a couple of times to let the EPB self-adjust.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and check for any warning lights related to ABS or the parking brake. If lights stay on, use the OBD2 scan tool to read and clear any temporary codes.
• With the vehicle in a safe, open area, perform a low-speed test: drive at 10–15 km/h (5–10 mph) and gently apply the brakes to verify smooth stopping and no pulling or noises.
• Bed-in (break in) the new pads: perform 5–8 moderate stops from about 40–50 km/h (25–30 mph) down to 10 km/h (5–10 mph), allowing the brakes to cool for a minute between each stop. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 300–500 km (200–300 miles) unless needed for safety.
• After the test drive, recheck around each rear wheel for any fluid leaks or loose hardware, and recheck lug nut torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450–$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180–$280 (parts only)

You Save: $270–$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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