🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll be replacing the rear brake pads and brake rotors on your Explorer, and retracting the electronic parking brake so the calipers can come off safely. This will restore braking performance and prevent noise or vibration from worn parts.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always work on a cool brake system; hot brakes can burn you and warp rotors.
• ⚠️ Park on a flat surface, place the transmission in Park, and chock the front wheels so the SUV cannot roll.
• ⚠️ This Explorer uses an electronic parking brake (EPB); you must put it in service mode before removing the rear calipers.
• ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands under the proper rear jacking points; never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and a dust mask; brake dust is harmful if inhaled.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; you can push the piston out and damage the caliper.
• ⚠️ Keep all grease and brake fluid off friction surfaces (pad faces and rotor faces).

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2–4)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Breaker bar 1/2" drive
• 🛠️ 21mm socket
• 🛠️ 13mm socket
• 🛠️ 15mm socket
• 🛠️ Torx T40 bit socket
• 🛠️ Ratchet 3/8" drive
• 🛠️ Ratchet 1/2" drive
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 3/8" drive (5–60 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 1/2" drive (30–200 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Flat blade screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ Needle-nose pliers
• 🛠️ C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor tool
• 🛠️ Wire brush (small, steel)
• 🛠️ Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• 🛠️ Rubber mallet
• 🛠️ Shop rags
• 🛠️ Brake cleaner spray
• 🛠️ Paint marker or chalk
• 🛠️ OBD2 scan tool with EPB service function (specialty)
• 🛠️ Small wire brush for slide pins
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Mechanic gloves
• 🛠️ Dust mask or respirator

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 (serves both rear wheels)
• 🔩 Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• 🔩 Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips / abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1 tube
• 🔩 Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• 🔩 New rotor retaining screws (Torx T40) - Qty: 2 (recommended)
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🔩 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Explorer on level ground, set the transmission to Park, and chock the front wheels.
• Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with the 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting the vehicle.
• Do not set the parking brake; it must be released for this job.
• If using a scan tool: connect it to the OBD2 port under the dash, and locate the EPB / Rear Brake Service Mode function before lifting the vehicle.
• You do not need to disconnect the battery, but keep the ignition off when not using the scan tool.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Rear of the Explorer

• Use the floor jack to lift the rear of the Explorer at the rear center jacking point (center of rear subframe crossmember).
• Place jack stands under the rear pinch welds or designated frame points on both sides, then slowly lower the SUV onto the stands.
• Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to fully remove both rear wheels; set wheels aside.
• Give the SUV a shake to confirm stability.

Step 2: Put the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) in Service Mode

• Option A – With Scan Tool (Recommended)
• Turn ignition to ON (engine off, dash lights on).
• On the scan tool, go to: Ford > Explorer > Brake System > EPB Service / Maintenance Mode.
• Follow prompts to “Open” or “Retract” rear parking brake. You will hear the EPB motors operate.
• Turn ignition OFF after service mode is active.
• Option B – Without Scan Tool (Service Mode via Switch) (if your tool cannot do EPB)
• Sit in the driver seat, close all doors.
• Turn ignition to ON (engine off).
• Press and hold the accelerator pedal fully down.
• Pull up and hold the parking brake switch.
• Keep both held for about 5–10 seconds until you see an EPB service message on the cluster (if present) or hear the EPB motors run.
• Release the switch and accelerator, then turn ignition OFF.
• If no confirmation appears, use a scan tool.

Step 3: Remove Rear Caliper from Bracket

• Turn the steering wheel straight ahead; rear wheels don’t steer, so you’ll work around the suspension.
• On one rear wheel, locate the caliper and the two 13mm guide pin bolts on the back.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide pin bolts.
• Carefully slide the caliper off the pads and rotor. If tight, gently pry with a flat blade screwdriver between pad and rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord or mechanics wire to the suspension spring so it doesn’t hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove Old Pads and Caliper Bracket

• Slide the old brake pads out of the bracket; note their orientation.
• Use a 15mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to remove the two caliper bracket bolts from the rear knuckle.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
• Torque spec for caliper bracket bolts on reassembly: 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the Old Rotor

• Locate the small rotor retaining screw on the rotor face (if equipped).
• Use a Torx T40 bit socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the rotor screw.
• If the rotor is stuck to the hub, tap around the hat area with a rubber mallet to break rust loose. Do not hit wheel studs.
• Slide the rotor straight off the hub.
• Torque spec for rotor retaining screw on reassembly: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)

Step 6: Clean Hub and Prepare New Rotor

• Use a wire brush to clean rust and debris from the hub face until it’s smooth and shiny.
• Wipe the hub with brake cleaner and a shop rag.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face, avoiding wheel studs.
• Spray the new rotor (both sides) with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil, then wipe dry.
• A clean hub prevents brake pulsation.

Step 7: Install New Rotor

• Place the new rotor onto the hub, lining up the rotor screw hole with the hub hole.
• Install the rotor retaining screw using the Torx T40 bit socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Tighten to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) with the 3/8" torque wrench if possible.
• Use a paint marker to mark one wheel stud and corresponding rotor hole for easier wheel alignment later (optional).

Step 8: Service Caliper Bracket and Slide Pins

• On the caliper bracket, remove the old pad hardware (metal clips) with a flat blade screwdriver.
• Clean the areas where the clips sit with a wire brush until shiny.
• Install new hardware clips from your hardware kit; press them in by hand until fully seated.
• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket one at a time using needle-nose pliers.
• Clean the slide pins with a shop rag and small wire brush if rusty.
• Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to each pin and reinstall, making sure they move freely.
• Pins must slide smoothly with no sticking.

Step 9: Reinstall Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor and align with mounting holes.
• Install the two bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 15mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to snug them.
• Use the 1/2" torque wrench with 15mm socket to tighten both bracket bolts to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Install New Brake Pads

• Apply a very thin layer of brake grease to the pad ears (where they touch the hardware clips) and the back of the pad backing plates. Do not get grease on pad friction material.
• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the bracket, following the same orientation as the old pads.
• Most pads can fit either side; check wear indicators.

Step 11: Retract Caliper Piston

• Inspect the caliper piston boot for tears; replace caliper if badly damaged.
• Place an old pad over the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp or brake piston tool between the pad and caliper body to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Go slowly to avoid damaging the piston or seals; watch the brake fluid level in the master cylinder under the hood and remove some fluid if it gets too full.

Step 12: Reinstall Caliper Over New Pads

• Position the caliper over the new pads and onto the bracket.
• Align the caliper slide pin holes with the bracket ears.
• Install the two guide pin bolts by hand, then tighten with the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Use the 3/8" torque wrench with 13mm socket to tighten each caliper slide pin bolt to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat for the Other Rear Wheel

• Repeat Steps 3–12 on the other rear brake assembly.
• Make sure hardware orientation and grease application match the first side.

Step 14: Return EPB to Normal Mode

• Option A – With Scan Tool:
• Turn ignition to ON.
• On the scan tool, select EPB > Exit Service Mode / Close Parking Brake and follow prompts.
• You should hear the EPB motors operate.
• Option B – Without Scan Tool (via Switch):
• Turn ignition to ON.
• Press and hold the brake pedal.
• Press and hold the parking brake switch down for several seconds until any EPB service message clears.
• Confirm that the parking brake now applies and releases normally using the switch.

Step 15: Reinstall Wheels and Lower Vehicle

• Place each wheel back on the hub, aligning your paint marks if used.
• Install lug nuts by hand and snug them in a star pattern with the 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Use the floor jack to lift the SUV slightly, remove jack stands, then lower it to the ground.
• Use the 1/2" torque wrench with 21mm socket to torque each lug nut in a star pattern to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Seat the Brake Pads

• Sit in the driver seat with the engine off.
• Firmly press the brake pedal 5–8 times until it becomes firm. This moves the pistons out to contact the pads.
• Apply and release the electronic parking brake a few times to ensure proper operation.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and gently press the brake pedal; it should feel firm and consistent.
• Check around both rear calipers and hoses for any signs of fluid leaks.
• Perform a short, low-speed test drive: brake gently at 20–30 mph to confirm smooth operation with no pulling or grinding.
• Bed in the new pads and rotors: make 8–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph down to 10 mph, allowing some time between stops for cooling. Avoid full emergency stops unless necessary.
• For the first 200–300 miles, avoid heavy braking from high speeds to let pads and rotors break in evenly.
• After the test drive, recheck rear wheel lug nut torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550–$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180–$320 (parts only)

You Save: $370–$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections above to add everything to your cart.