🔧 Canyon - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear calipers, swapping the pads, and replacing the rear rotors. On your Canyon, the parking brake is usually a small drum brake inside the “hat” of the rotor, so the parking brake must be fully released to get the rotor off.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; brake dust and cleaner are harsh.
• 🔥 Brakes get hot; let everything cool before starting.
• 🚫 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels and keep the parking brake released during rotor removal.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torx T30 bit
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Brake caliper hanger hook (or bungee cord)
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (2 pack, 25-40mm long)
• Drain pan
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, put the transmission in P, and chock both front wheels.
• 🦶 Release the parking brake fully before lifting the rear.
• If your Canyon has an electronic parking brake switch (EPB), put it in Service Mode using a scan tool before starting.
• Open the hood and remove the brake master cylinder cap (leave it sitting on top) so fluid can move when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Break the lug nuts loose

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about 1 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear and set the frame on jack stands.
• Remove both rear wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (do not stretch the hose)

• Turn the steering wheel straight and check you have slack in the brake hose.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the caliper slide-pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off and hang it with a caliper hanger hook (or bungee cord).
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Remove the inner and outer pads by hand; use a flat blade screwdriver if they’re stuck.
• Remove the pad abutment clips from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• If equipped, remove the rotor retaining screw using a Torx T30 bit.
• Pull the rotor straight off. If it’s stuck:
• Thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor “jacking” holes and tighten them evenly with a 3/8" drive ratchet until the rotor pops loose.
• If needed, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to help break rust.
• If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it—confirm the parking brake is fully released.

Step 7: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner so the rotor sits flat.
• Install the new rotor. Reinstall the rotor screw (if used) with the Torx T30 bit.
• Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) for the rotor screw.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten using an 18mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper bracket bolts.

Step 9: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new abutment clips onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of silicone brake lubricant where the pads slide on the clips.
• Install the new pads into the bracket (inner pad goes on the piston side).
• Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp to slowly press the piston back until it’s fully seated.
• Watch the brake fluid level at the reservoir; remove excess with a rag if it starts to overflow.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

• Set the caliper over the new pads and align the slide-pin bolt holes.
• Install the slide-pin bolts using a 13mm socket.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper slide-pin bolts.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using the 21mm socket.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs) for wheel lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 Pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• 🧴 Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• 🧪 Test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• 🛑 Bedding-in (break-in): make 8–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, allowing a little cool-down between stops.
• 🅿️ Re-check parking brake hold on a safe incline after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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