🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the brake calipers and brackets, swap the pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. This restores stopping power and helps prevent brake noise and vibration.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3–4 hours (first time)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Always support the car on jack stands; never work under a car held only by a jack.
• 🛑 Work on a flat, solid surface and keep the transmission in PARK with the front wheels chocked.
• 🛑 Turn the ignition OFF and keep your foot off the brake pedal while calipers are removed.
• 🛑 Do one side at a time so you can look at the other side as a reference.
• 🛑 Brake dust can be harmful—avoid blowing it with air; use brake cleaner and rags instead.
• 🛑 Rear rotor has an internal parking brake drum—make sure the parking brake pedal is fully released.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2–4)
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 21mm socket
• 🧰 Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2" drive)
• 🧰 Breaker bar 1/2"
• 🧰 14mm socket
• 🧰 19mm socket
• 🧰 Torque wrench 1/2" drive (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• 🧰 C-clamp large or disc brake piston tool
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver medium
• 🧰 Small pry bar
• 🧰 Wire brush small
• 🧰 Bungee cords or mechanics wire
• 🧰 Shop rags
• 🧰 Disposable gloves
• 🧰 Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🧱 Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set (serves both rear wheels, replace in pairs)
• 🧱 Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• 🧱 Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1 set
• 🧱 High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1 tube
• 🧱 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 2 cans
• 🧱 Anti-seize compound - Qty: small tube
• 🧱 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park the Altima on level ground, shift to PARK, and fully release the parking brake pedal.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks in front of and behind at least one front wheel.
• 🔧 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with the 21mm socket and breaker bar while the car is still on the ground.
• 📦 Lay out your new pads, rotors, and hardware so you know what goes where.
• 📸 Take a clear photo of the existing rear brake setup on one side for reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear of the car

• Use the floor jack under the rear center jacking point (just ahead of the rear subframe) to lift the rear of the car.
• Place jack stands under the rear pinch welds or designated support points on both sides.
• Lower the car gently onto the jack stands with the floor jack.
• Leave the floor jack lightly touching (not lifting) as a backup.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to remove the rear wheel lug nuts.
• Pull the wheels straight off and set them aside.
• If a wheel sticks, tap the tire sidewall with your hand.

Step 3: Inspect the brake setup

• Look at how the pads sit in the caliper bracket and how any pad clips are positioned.
• Take another close photo of the caliper, pads, and bracket on one side.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (one side at a time)

• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove both caliper slide bolts.
• Gently pry the caliper off the pads using the flathead screwdriver if it’s snug.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension spring with bungee cords or mechanics wire so the brake hose is not strained.

Step 5: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Remove the metal pad clips from the caliper bracket using the flathead screwdriver.
• Keep one side’s parts laid out in order as a sample.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

• Locate the two large bolts on the back of the caliper bracket.
• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen and remove these bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
• Reinstall later to: 108 Nm (79 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Remove the old rotor

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it’s stuck:
• Tap around the rotor hat and outer edge with a rubber mallet while pulling outward.
  • If still stuck, lightly tap more around the center; avoid hitting studs.

Step 8: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor

• Use the wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the face of the hub where the rotor sits.
• Wipe the hub with brake cleaner spray and shop rags.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face and around the hub center, avoiding the wheel studs.
• Spray the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner spray to remove oil coating, then wipe dry with shop rags.

Step 9: Install the new rotor

• Slide the new rotor onto the hub, lining up the wheel studs.
• Use one or two lug nuts threaded on by hand (with the 21mm socket) to hold the rotor flat against the hub.

Step 10: Clean and prepare the caliper bracket

• Use the wire brush to clean the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket.
• Spray a little brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop rags.
• Install the new pad clips from your hardware kit into the caliper bracket by hand until they snap fully into place.
• Lightly coat the pad contact areas (where the pad ears rest on clips) with high-temperature silicone brake grease. Do not get grease on rotor or pad faces.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Place the caliper bracket back over the rotor and align the bolt holes.
• Start the two bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 19mm socket and ratchet to snug both bolts.
• Use the torque wrench 1/2" with the 19mm socket to tighten both bracket bolts to 108 Nm (79 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Compress the caliper piston

• A C-clamp is a tool that squeezes objects together using a screw.
• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Position the C-clamp large so one end is on the back of the caliper housing and the other on the old pad.
• Slowly tighten the C-clamp large to push the piston fully back into the caliper. Go slow and steady.
• Once fully compressed, remove the C-clamp large and old pad.

Step 13: Install new brake pads

• Apply a very thin layer of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the metal backing plates where they contact the clips and any anti-rattle shims (not on pad friction surfaces).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket, matching the original orientation you photographed.
• Make sure pad ears fully seat in the clips.

Step 14: Reinstall the caliper over new pads

• Slide the caliper over the new pads and onto the bracket.
• If it doesn’t fit, double-check the piston is fully compressed.
• Align the caliper slide pin holes with the bracket.
• Start the slide pin bolts by hand, then tighten them with the 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Use the torque wrench 1/2" with the 14mm socket to tighten slide pin bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 4–14 on the opposite rear wheel: caliper off, pads out, bracket off, rotor off, hub clean, new rotor on, bracket on, pads in, caliper on.
• Use your first side as a visual guide.

Step 16: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Remove the temporary lug nuts holding the rotors with the 21mm socket.
• Install the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Raise the car slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower the car fully to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench 1/2" with the 21mm socket to torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Seat the brake pedal before driving

• With the engine OFF, sit in the driver’s seat.
• Slowly press the brake pedal 5–10 times until it becomes firm. This moves the pistons back out to the pads.
• Only move the car after the pedal feels solid.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔁 Start the engine and gently press the brake pedal again; it should feel firm and consistent.
• 🚗 Perform a short, low-speed test drive: 30–40 km/h, brake gently a few times to ensure there’s no pulling, grinding, or abnormal noise.
• 🛑 After the test drive, check around each rear wheel for any signs of fluid leaks or loose components.
• 🛞 Recheck lug nut torque after about 50–100 km: use the torque wrench 1/2" and 21mm socket to confirm 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
• 🔥 New pads and rotors need a gentle break-in: for the first 300–500 km, avoid hard panic stops unless necessary and avoid keeping the brakes applied heavily while stopped.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $400–$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150–$250 (parts only, re-usable tools extra)

You Save: $250–$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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