🔧 86 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads and rotors on your 86 means removing the rear wheels, unbolting the rear calipers and brackets, swapping the rotors, then installing new pads and reassembling everything to the correct torque.

This job is very doable at home, but cleanliness and correct torque matter a lot for braking safety.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your 86 with jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting or the rear rotor won’t come off.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust and cleaner are irritating; wear eye protection and gloves.
• ⚠️ Keep grease/oil off pad and rotor friction surfaces.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet
• 6-inch extension
• Large C-clamp brake piston tool
• Bungee cord
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir; it may rise when you compress the caliper pistons.
• Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting the car.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the rear and remove the wheels

• Lift the rear with a floor jack and support the car securely on jack stands.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 19mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel slightly if it helps your access, and position yourself to see the rear caliper clearly.
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket, then hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord so the brake hose is not strained.
• C-clamp tool = squeezes the piston back.

Step 3: Remove the brake pads and inspect slide pins

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Check the caliper slide pins (the smooth pins the caliper moves on). If they feel dry or sticky, clean and apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone).

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket, breaker bar, and ratchet.
• Set the bracket aside.
• On reassembly: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat using a rubber mallet.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat (this helps prevent pedal vibration).

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean to remove shipping oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• Hold rotor with one lug nut hand-tight.

Step 7: Reinstall the bracket and hardware

• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
• Install new pad hardware clips (if included) into the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver carefully if needed.
• Apply a very thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone) to pad ears where they slide on the hardware (do not get any on the pad face).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood so it doesn’t overflow.
• Use a Large C-clamp brake piston tool to slowly push the caliper piston straight back into the caliper.
• If it won’t compress smoothly, stop and tell me (a seized caliper is possible).

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
• Place the caliper over the pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands with the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Restore pedal feel and check fluid

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal feel.

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✅ After Repair

• Do a slow test drive in a safe area and confirm the car stops straight with no grinding.
• Listen for light scraping the first few stops (can be normal), but loud grinding means stop and recheck work.
• Bed-in the pads if your pad manufacturer specifies it (common method is several moderate stops from 30-40 mph, with cooling time between).
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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