🔧 Yukon - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swap the rear brake pads and rotors, then reassemble everything with the correct torque. This restores braking performance and prevents noise/vibration from worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Yukon with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves; brake dust and cleaner are irritating.
• 🔥 Brakes get hot—work only when everything is cool.
• 🧯 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• 🔌 If your Yukon has an electronic parking brake (EPB) switch, put it in service mode before pushing pistons in.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 22mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torx T30 bit
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Threadlocker (medium strength) - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack and support both sides on jack stands.
• If your Yukon has an EPB switch (not a foot pedal), put the EPB into service mode before compressing pistons.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm parking brake type (EPB vs foot pedal)

• Look for an EPB button/switch on the dash/console (EPB) versus a foot-operated parking brake pedal (mechanical).
• If EPB switch: do the EPB service mode step below before pushing caliper pistons in.

Step 2: Put the EPB into service mode (ONLY if your Yukon has an EPB switch)

• Use the EPB switch to fully release the parking brake.
• Follow the on-dash Driver Information Center prompts (if shown) for brake service mode.
• If no prompts appear, stop and tell me what you see.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts using a 22mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and slide them under the frame as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper (the “clamp” that squeezes the pads)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear—just access the caliper from behind.
• Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts using a 13mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord (do not let it hang by the hose).
• Caliper guide pins are the sliding bolts.
• Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the brake pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad lands using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket (the “carrier” the pads sit in)

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 7: Remove the rotor

• If equipped, remove the rotor retaining screw using a Torx T30 bit.
• Pull the rotor off the hub. If stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
• Rust makes rotors “glue” to the hub.

Step 8: Clean the hub surface

• Use a wire brush to clean the hub face where the rotor sits.
• Spray with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean.
• This helps prevent pedal pulsation caused by rotor runout (a wobble).

Step 9: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If equipped, install the rotor retaining screw using a Torx T30 bit and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Apply threadlocker (medium strength) to the bracket bolt threads.
• Install bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Install new hardware and pads

• Install new abutment clips into the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease where the pad ears contact the clips (metal-to-metal points only).
• Slide new pads into place by hand.
• Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.

Step 12: Compress the caliper piston

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (loosens pressure).
• Use a brake piston compressor tool (specialty) or C-clamp (6") to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Watch the reservoir level; do not overflow. Top off later with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 13: Reinstall the caliper

• Position the caliper over the new pads.
• Install caliper guide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install wheels and hand-start lug nuts.
• Lower the Yukon to the ground with the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 22mm socket.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

Step 15: If EPB-equipped, exit service mode and set parking brake

• Use the EPB switch to command exit from service mode.
• Apply and release the parking brake once to confirm normal operation.

---

✅ After Repair

• With engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• Check brake fluid level and adjust with DOT 3 brake fluid as needed (do not overfill).
• Road test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Brake bed-in: make 8-10 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~5 mph, letting brakes cool between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench and 22mm socket.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $380-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.